The Secret of Chanel No. 5 by Tilar J. Mazzeo

as part of, 54, 96, 105
taken over by Coty, 69–70
    Chiris, Louis, 144
    Choix
(Iribe), 127
    Churchill, Winston, 160, 161
    Chypre (Chanel perfume), 109
    Chypre de Coty (perfume), 42–43
    Chypre de Limassol (perfume), 42
    Chypre de Paris (perfume), 42
    chypre perfumes, 40, 42–43
accords in, 43
as oldest perfume family, 42
    cinnamaldehyde, 64
    Cistercian orders, 5, 6, 8–9
    civet cats, musk from, 80, 208
    Claude, Queen of France, 107
    cleanliness, as Coco’s preferred scent, 8, 21, 37, 46
    Cleopatra, 40
    Coco (perfume), 202
    Coco Avant Chanel
(film), 201
    Coco Mademoiselle (perfume), 202
    Cocteau, Jean, 127
    Collier’s,
126, 156
    concretes, production of floral, 143–45
    Cool Water (perfume), 41
    cosmetics industry, advertising in, 188–89
    Côte d’Azur, 143
    Coty, Christiane, 157–58
    Coty, Elizabeth, 33
    Coty, François, 25, 29–30, 32, 44, 54, 94, 157, 158
Chypre introduced by, 42–43
Coco’s competition with, 70, 106, 117–18
as inspiration for Coco, 30, 81, 92
and origins of Chanel No. 5, 68–69
strategy for challenging Chanel No. 5, 117–18
    Coty, Henri, 157–58
    Coty, Inc., 29–30, 114, 147, 174
Chiris takeover by, 69–70
as perfume powerhouse, 103–4
perfumes from,
see specific perfumes
    Coty, Yvonne, 30, 32, 69
    coumarin, 41, 115
    couturiers and designers:
    perfumes launched by, 25–27, 59, 92, 122–23
see also specific couturiers and designers
    Crawford, Joan, 126
    Cristal Baccarat, 101
    cuir de Russie,
42
    Cuir de Russie (perfume), 167, 202
    d’Alençon, Émilienne, 18
scent used by, 18, 20–21, 37
    Darzens, Georges, 62, 67
    Davidoff, perfume house of, 41
    Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster

(Thomas), 193–94, 200
    de Medici, Catherine, 31, 107–8
    de Medici, Marie:
manuscript of, 31, 32, 33, 53
and roots of French perfume industry, 31–32
    demi-monde:

Coco as part of, 16–18, 33–34, 88–90, 184
divide between respectability and, 18, 33–34
as note in Chanel marketing, 201
    Deneuve, Catherine, 198–99, 200, 208
    department stores:
marketing driven by, 123
see also specific stores
    de Villemessant, Henri, 81
    Diaghilev, Sergei, 127
    Dior, perfume house of, 42, 43
    Dirys, Jeanne, 127
    Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia, Grand Duke, 49–53, 126
childhood scents recalled by, 52, 55, 71, 72, 215
in exile, 50–51, 52
in Rasputin murder plot, 49–50
    d’Obazine, Étienne, Saint, 5, 7, 10, 17
    Donne, John, 79
    D’Orsay, perfume house of, 114
    Dumas, Alexandre, 10
    Eau Première (perfume), as update of Chanel No. 5, 203
    economy, U.S., during Roaring Twenties, xiv-xv
    Einstein, Albert, xiv
    Elizabeth Arden, 147
    Elizabeth Feodorovna of Russia, Grand Duchess, 49, 51
    Emeraude (perfume), 84
    enfleurage,
144
    esters, 78
    Eternity (perfume), xiii
    Fabergé, 54
    Fahrenheit (perfume), 42
    fashion:
Coco as arbiter of, 45–46, 86, 116, 126, 137, 182
Coco’s millinery beginning in, 23–25, 127, 185
during Great Depression, 120
personal style as factor in, 93
of Roaring Twenties, 22, 45–46
see also
couturiers
    Fitzgerald, F. Scott, 48, 109, 156
    floral-aldehydric, Chanel No. 5 as first, 67
    floral perfumes, 40
considered less respectable, 18, 20, 44
considered respectable, 20, 34, 44
quality materials needed for, 43
re-imagined by Coco, 43–45
soliflore style, 43–44
    floral scents:
balance of aldehydes with, 66, 71
in Chanel No. 5,
see
Chanel No. 5 formula
as head notes, 78
    Floramye (perfume), aldehydes first used in, 67
    flowers:
at Aubazine Abbey, 7, 10
symbolism of, 10
    Fontaine, Anne, 201
    Forbes,
175
    Forces of the French Interior, 155
    fougére perfumes, 40, 41
    Fougére Royale (perfume), 41
    fragrance:
compounds, 78
see also
perfumes; scent
    France:
Depression-era economy of, 120
luxury industry in, 113–16, 120
Nazi occupation of, 139–40, 151–55, 166, 185
    frankincense, 79
in oriental perfumes, 40
    French Resistance, 140, 155,