The Secret of Chanel No. 5 by Tilar J. Mazzeo Page B

product line by, 121–22, 133–34, 148–49
expansion during World War II of, 147–50
Jewish partners wartime exile from, 140, 141–46, 150, 151–54, 185
legal battles at, 133–34, 136–37, 138, 151–54, 162, 169, 170, 171–72, 176–77, 195
marketing of Chanel No. 5 by,
see
Chanel No. 5, marketing and advertising of
missing from 1925 Paris Exposition, 113–16
multiple Chanel perfumes of, 108–9, 112
partnership tensions at, 122, 129, 132–36, 141, 166–67, 168, 169–70, 176–77
renegotiation of Coco’s contract with, 176–77, 183–85, 195
and Wertheimers’ return to France, 167
Wertheimers’ sale to Amiot of shares in, 151–54, 185
    Lewy, Claude, 176
    L’Exposition Internationale des
Arts Décoratifs et Industriels
Modernes (1925), 113–16, 120, 126
economic impact on designers of, 120
marketing trends launched at, 123–24
perfume pavilion at, 114–15, 123–24
    Lights of New York, The,
119
    lilac, as respectable scent, 44
    lilies, as respectable scent, 44
    L’Illustration,
117
    Lindbergh, Charles, xv, 119
    L’invitation au rêve,
199
    Little Red Riding Hood
campaign, 200–201
    Liù (perfume), 174
    Lombardi, Vera, 160
    London Daily Mail,
xiii-xiv
    Louis XV, King of France, 19
    Lurhmann, Baz, 201
    Mademoiselle Chanel fragrance line, creation of, 165, 167–77, 202
    Mademoiselle Chanel No. 1 (perfume), 165, 168
perfumer behind, 172–74
Rallet No. 1 as basis for, 172–74
reformulated as Chanel No. 19, 202
as “super” Chanel No. 5, 169, 170, 172, 173
    Mademoiselle Chanel No. 2 (perfume), 165, 168
    Mademoiselle Chanel No. 31 (perfume), 165, 168, 169
    Madoux, Georges, 152
    Malhame, Bichara, 42
    Mao Tse-Tung, 186
    Marcus, Stanley, 171
    Margueritte, Victor, 21
    Maria Pavlovna of Russia, Grand Duchess, 49, 51–52
    Marilyn,
200
    marketing
of Chanel No. 5,
see
Chanel No. 5, marketing and advertising of
changes in perfume industry, 123–25
of Coty’s perfumes, 81
driven by department stores, 123
of luxury during Great Depression, 119–21, 124
mid-century shifts in, 188–91
    marketing
(cont.)

of perfumes during World War II, 147–50
of Poiret’s signature scents, 26–27
    Matisse, Henri, 13
    memory, scent linked to, 52, 90–91, 102, 210
    Meyer, Raoul, 135, 140
    Miss Dior (perfume), 43
    Mitsouko (perfume), 182
    Modern Dancing
(Castle and Castle), 27
    Molyneux, Edward, 83–85, 86, 114
    Monoprix, 148
    Mon Parfum (perfume), 93
    Monroe, Marilyn, xiv, xvi, 186, 190, 198, 200
    Monument,
199
    Morand, Paul, 57
    Moulin Rouge,
201
    Moulins sur Allier, France, 13–17
    Mudyug Island, 56
    multiflores, 55, 70–71
Chanel No. 5 as standout, 65–66
introduction of, 44–45
    Mumm, Theodore, 159–60
    Museum of Modern Art (MOMA), xvi-xvii, 187
    musk ketone, 209
    musks:
as bottom notes, 78
as erotic scent, 18, 20, 79–80
in oriental perfumes, 40
origin of, 80
synthetic, 208–9
used in Chanel No. 5, 71, 76
    myrrh, 79
    Napoléon, Emperor of France, 2, 10, 44
    Neiman Marcus, 171
    New York, N.Y.:
perfume market in, 111–12
during Roaring Twenties, xiv
    New York Times,
xvii, 112, 132, 171
Chanel’s obituary in, 196
    Nicholas II, Czar of Russia, 49, 50, 51
    Nips, 187
    Nuit Persane (perfume), 26, 123
    number five, as Coco’s talisman, 9–10, 11, 60–61, 82, 84
    numbers, as symbolic, 8–10, 60–61
    Numéro Cinq (perfume), 84–85
    oakmoss, in fougére accord, 41
    Obsession (perfume), 40
    Offenbach, Jacques, 15
    Old Spice Cologne, 40
    Opium (perfume), 40
    orange blossom, 79
    oriental perfumes, 40–41
    Our Dancing Daughters,
126
    Pantin, France, Chanel production facilities in, 166
    Parfum Delettrez, 114
    Parfums d’Orsay, 42, 114
    Parfums de Rosine, 26, 30, 114
    Paris, France:
as bohemian, 13
Chanel No. 5 as symbol of, 216–17
collaborators sought and charged in, 157–62
as fashion capital, 113
liberation