constantly, until thickened and smooth. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Blend in the remaining tablespoon butter and serve with the chicken.
New Green Beans
Haricots verts, which are much slimmer than common string beans, may be difficult to find in the United States. If you are unable to find them, substitute the smallest string beans you can find .
4 SERVINGS
1 pound haricots verts or fresh green beans
4 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Trim and wash the beans. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook for 5–10 minutes. Beans should be crisp yet tender (or, of course, to your own personal taste). Drain the beans and rinse under cold water to halt cooking. In a saucepan, melt the butter; add the beans and lemon juice. Stir to coat the beans with butter. Serve immediately.
Mashed Potatoes
For Parisian-style mashed potatoes, use the recipe on page 42 .
Apple Pie and Cheese
Unless Madame Lecomtes kitchen as well as her dining room had been corrupted by “too many compatriots,” it is not likely that Jake and Bill had all-American apple pie and cheese, an unheard-of combination in France. Most likely they enjoyed a cheese course followed by a classic French apple tart. 40 For the tart recipe, follow the one on page 43 .
Fine
Une fine (pronounced feen), short for Grand Fine Champagne, is the common way to order Cognac in France. A fine is a blend of Cognac brandies from the Grand Champagne and Petite Champagne districts .
The Garden of Eden
Later in life, Hemingway returned to France in his fiction, this time to the Riviera. In 1946, he began work on what he felt was a major novel. He worked on The Garden of Eden over the next 15 years, amassing a manuscript of 48 chapters and 200,000 words. The book was not published until 25 years after his death, severely diminished in size yet retaining its essential elements of love, obsession, loss, and hunger. This book alone, once called “the eggiest novel ever written,” 41 may very well wrest from Paris the title of gastronomic capital of Hemingway’s France and relocate it on the Mediterranean coast.
Hemingway uses food in general, and eggs specifically, as symbols of the volatile relationship between the honeymooning David and Catherine Bourne and the dark and beautiful Marita, with whom they have both fallen in love. They eat eggs soft-boiled, egg whites cold and cut up, fried eggs, and omelets. There is even a Humpty Dumpty reference in David’s African story-within-the-story. Between all of the eggs, and the other foods and drinks, we cannot ignore the central emphasis on appetites and hunger that rule The Garden of Eden . While it may often result in “wacky” humor 42 The Garden of Eden sets an abundant culinary table that is irresistible:
They were always hungry but they ate very well. They were hungry for breakfast which they ate at the cafe, ordering brioche and cafe au lait and eggs, and the type of preserve that they chose and the manner in which the eggs were to be cooked was an excitement…. On this morning there was brioche and red raspberry preserves and the eggs were boiled and there was a pat of butter that melted as they stirred them and salted them lightly and ground pepper over them in the cups [Hemingway believed that pepper cleansed the morning stomach]. 43
They were big eggs and fresh and the girl’s were not cooked quite as long as the young man’s. He remembered that easily and he was happy with his which he diced up with the spoon and ate with only the flow of the butter to moisten them and the fresh early morning texture and the bite of the coarsely ground pepper grains and the hot coffee and the chickory-fragrant bowl of cafe au lait. 44
THE MENU
Breakfast in the Garden
Soft-Boiled Eggs
Brioche and Red Raspberry
Preserves
Café au Lait
Brioche
2 4- INCH BY 8- INCH LOAVES
To create brioche loaves, or Nanterres, simply follow the brioche recipe on page 23 . After the
New Green Beans
Haricots verts, which are much slimmer than common string beans, may be difficult to find in the United States. If you are unable to find them, substitute the smallest string beans you can find .
4 SERVINGS
1 pound haricots verts or fresh green beans
4 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Trim and wash the beans. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook for 5–10 minutes. Beans should be crisp yet tender (or, of course, to your own personal taste). Drain the beans and rinse under cold water to halt cooking. In a saucepan, melt the butter; add the beans and lemon juice. Stir to coat the beans with butter. Serve immediately.
Mashed Potatoes
For Parisian-style mashed potatoes, use the recipe on page 42 .
Apple Pie and Cheese
Unless Madame Lecomtes kitchen as well as her dining room had been corrupted by “too many compatriots,” it is not likely that Jake and Bill had all-American apple pie and cheese, an unheard-of combination in France. Most likely they enjoyed a cheese course followed by a classic French apple tart. 40 For the tart recipe, follow the one on page 43 .
Fine
Une fine (pronounced feen), short for Grand Fine Champagne, is the common way to order Cognac in France. A fine is a blend of Cognac brandies from the Grand Champagne and Petite Champagne districts .
The Garden of Eden
Later in life, Hemingway returned to France in his fiction, this time to the Riviera. In 1946, he began work on what he felt was a major novel. He worked on The Garden of Eden over the next 15 years, amassing a manuscript of 48 chapters and 200,000 words. The book was not published until 25 years after his death, severely diminished in size yet retaining its essential elements of love, obsession, loss, and hunger. This book alone, once called “the eggiest novel ever written,” 41 may very well wrest from Paris the title of gastronomic capital of Hemingway’s France and relocate it on the Mediterranean coast.
Hemingway uses food in general, and eggs specifically, as symbols of the volatile relationship between the honeymooning David and Catherine Bourne and the dark and beautiful Marita, with whom they have both fallen in love. They eat eggs soft-boiled, egg whites cold and cut up, fried eggs, and omelets. There is even a Humpty Dumpty reference in David’s African story-within-the-story. Between all of the eggs, and the other foods and drinks, we cannot ignore the central emphasis on appetites and hunger that rule The Garden of Eden . While it may often result in “wacky” humor 42 The Garden of Eden sets an abundant culinary table that is irresistible:
They were always hungry but they ate very well. They were hungry for breakfast which they ate at the cafe, ordering brioche and cafe au lait and eggs, and the type of preserve that they chose and the manner in which the eggs were to be cooked was an excitement…. On this morning there was brioche and red raspberry preserves and the eggs were boiled and there was a pat of butter that melted as they stirred them and salted them lightly and ground pepper over them in the cups [Hemingway believed that pepper cleansed the morning stomach]. 43
They were big eggs and fresh and the girl’s were not cooked quite as long as the young man’s. He remembered that easily and he was happy with his which he diced up with the spoon and ate with only the flow of the butter to moisten them and the fresh early morning texture and the bite of the coarsely ground pepper grains and the hot coffee and the chickory-fragrant bowl of cafe au lait. 44
THE MENU
Breakfast in the Garden
Soft-Boiled Eggs
Brioche and Red Raspberry
Preserves
Café au Lait
Brioche
2 4- INCH BY 8- INCH LOAVES
To create brioche loaves, or Nanterres, simply follow the brioche recipe on page 23 . After the
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