The Hemingway Cookbook by Craig Boreth Page A

dough has been refrigerated overnight, let it stand at room temperature for 1 hour. Divide the dough into four pieces. Quickly form four balls slightly less than 4 inches across. Place two of the balls in each of two buttered loaf pans (4 inches by 8 inches), one ball on each end of the pans. Cover the loaf pans and let stand until the dough has risen to the edge of the pans, about 2 hours. At that time, lightly brush the top of each loaf with the beaten egg. Bake in a 350° F oven for 40 to 45 minutes, or until loaves are golden brown. Turn onto cooling racks, brush with melted butter, and let stand for 1 hour. Slice brioche and serve with red raspberry preserves.
    Café au Lait
    To create the perfect cafe au lait to accompany the brioche, use a dark-roasted coffee blended with French chicory (the roasted and ground root of endive). Blends available in the United States include Cafe du Monde and Community New Orleans.
    In addition to the innumerable eggs in The Garden of Eden , Hemingway also introduces several dishes of mackerel as “crucial signs and thematic symbols.” 45 In the original manuscript for the book, after David valiantly fights and catches a sea bass too large to cook at the hotel, he and Catherine lunch on mackerel fresh from the fleet’s morning catch. Afterwards they make love, reenforcing the role of the maquerel , the pimp or panderer who administers to their sexual exploits. In the novel that survives, though, they have fresh sea bass for lunch, forestalling the more lurid symbolism in favor of a celebration of David’s skills as a fisherman:
“I’m excited about the fish,” she said. “Don’t we have wonderful simple fun?”
They were hungry for lunch and the bottle of white wine was cold and they drank it asthey ate the celery remoulade and the small radishes and the home pickled mushrooms from the big glass jar. The bass was grilled and the grill marks showed on the silver skin and the butter melted on the hot plate. There was sliced lemon to press on the bass and fresh bread from the bakery and wine cooled their tongues of the heat of the fried potatoes. It was a good light, dry cheerful unknown white wine and the restaurant was proud of it. 46
    THE MENU
    Lunch in the Garden
    Sea Bass Grilled with Butter
and Herbs
French-fried Potatoes
Celery Rémoulade
Small Radishes
Home-Pickled Mushrooms
    Sea Bass Grilled with Butter and Herbs
    We’ll get a small one for us to eat. They’re really wonderful. A small one ought to be grilled with butter and with herbs. They’re like striped bass at home. 47
    2 TO 3 SERVINGS
1 onion, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 sprig thyme
2 cups dry white wine
1 2- to 3-pound sea bass or striped bass, cleaned
2 sprigs fennel
4 tablespoons melted butter
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
1 lemon, sliced, for garnish
    In a flat baking dish large enough to hold the fish, combine the onion, celery, bay leaf, fennel seeds, thyme, and wine. Make 2 diagonal incisions on both sides of the bass. Add the fish to the marinade, baste with the liquid and marinate, covered with plastic wrap, for 2 hours.
    Heat a charcoal grill until hot, and add the sprigs of fennel to the coals. Remove the fish from themarinade, pat dry with a paper towel, and brush liberally with melted butter. Grill the fish for 8 to 10 minutes on each side, brushing occasionally with more butter. Check the fish to see that the flesh is white to the bone beneath the cuts you have made. Remove the fish to a warm serving plate, pour the remaining butter over the fish, and garnish with parsley and lemon slices.
    Celery Rémoulade
    4 SERVINGS
2 cups peeled and coarsely grated celery root
1 hard-boiled egg
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped chives for garnish
    Blanch the grated celery root in boiling water