The Hemingway Cookbook by Craig Boreth Page B

for 2 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Allow to dry thoroughly.
    In a small mixing bowl, mash the egg and egg yolk together with a fork. Stir in the mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Vigorously whisk in the olive oil, a little at a time, until the sauce reaches the consistency of mayonnaise. Combine the celery root and the dressing, chill, and serve garnished with chopped fresh parsley and chives.
    Small Radishes (see page 41 )
    Home-Pickled Mushrooms
    4 SERVINGS
1 pound fresh button mushrooms
½ cup wine vinegar
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons chopped chives
1 teaspoon dried tarragon
1 clove garlic, finely minced
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    Wipe the mushrooms clean with a towel and cut off the ends of the stems. Whisk all the other ingredients together in a mixing bowl. Put the mushrooms into a jar and cover with the marinade. Allow the mushrooms to marinate in the refrigerator at least overnight.

4
SPAIN
The Fiesta Concept of Life
“It was spring in Paris and everything looked just a little too beautiful. Mike and I decided to go to Spain. Strater drew us a fine map of Spain on the back of a menu of the Strix restaurant. On the same menu he wrote the name of a restaurant in Madrid where the specialty is young suckling pig roasted, the name of a pension on the Via San Jeronimo where the bull fighters live, and sketched a plan showing where the Grecos are hung in the Prado.”
    — By-Line Ernest Hemingway

The amateurs in the Pamplona Bullring. Hemingway is the taunter in the white pants.

    At the urging of Gertrude Stein and Ezra Pound, Hemingway made his first real excursion to Spain in the summer of 1923 (he had traveled through Spain en route to Paris in 1921). His destination was Pamplona on the nape of the Pyrenees, home to the Fiesta de San Fermín and some of the greatest bullfights in all of Spain. Ernest was immediately captivated by the country, the people, and the spectacle of the bulls. He would later write: “If the people of Spain have one common trait it is pride and if they have another it is common sense and if they have a third it is impracticality.” 1 It was an alluring combination, one that would draw Hemingway back to Spain again and again for the rest of his life.
    He used those early Spanish summers for The Sun Also Rises , paying homage to its earthly dominion, celebrating its trout streams and its all-consuming celebrations. In the early 1930s he wrote Death in the Afternoon , his treatise on the bullfights and writing and eating and living. In the mid-30s, war swept the country. He watched as the country he loved best was torn apart by civil war. While he watched as a journalist, he was seeing as an artist. Soon after his return he began For Whom the Bell Tolls . Much later, very close to the end of his life, he chased his final yesterday, following two of Spain’s greatest matadors in The Dangerous Summer .
    Spain inspired some of Hemingway’s finest work. The writing is full of the rich colors of the country, the lowing of cows, the feel of solid earth underfoot, and the aromas of saffron and olive oil.
    (Author’s note: I would like to acknowledge a debt of gratitude to Penelope Casas, the author of such extraordinary books on Spanish cuisine as Tapas: The Little Dishes of Spain and ¡Delicioso! Upon returning from my first trip to Spain, I first learned to recreate the staples of Spanish cuisine from the pages of her books. Her influence may be seen and tasted in the following pages.)
    The Sun Also Rises
    July 1925: Duff Twysden, Harold Loeb, Bill Smith, and Hadley and Ernest Hemingway are in Pamplona for the Fiesta de San Fermín. The party seethes and rocks amidst the personal bitterness between Hemingway and Loeb, and by week’s end a rift of legendary dimensions has split the group. The Hemingways travel south to Madrid, he scribbling in blue composition books a tale of destitution