deflate the dough as well.) Using an under-and-over kneading motion, punch down the dough, continuing to knead until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the dough is too sticky to knead.
4. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
5. Sprinkle cornmeal on several baking sheets and set aside.
6. Using a serrated knife, separate the dough into halves, then quarters, and then eighths. Cut each eighth into three pieces. Press each piece of dough with the heel of your hand in a circular motion, forming a ball. Transfer the rolls to the prepared pans, cover with a dish towel, and let rise until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours, or cover with plastic wrap and let rise in refrigerator overnight. Bake for about 20 minutes. To test for doneness, tap the bottom of a roll. It should sound hollow.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR HAND MIXING
1. Place the yeast, warm water, and sugar in a large stainless steelbowl and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add salt to yeast mixture along with the eggs, melted butter, milk, and mashed sweet potato. Using a large wooden spoon, beat until thoroughly combined.
2. Beat in flour, 1 cup at a time. Each additional cup makes the dough harder to beat, so this will take concentration and elbow grease. When the dough begins to form a ball, transfer it from the bowl to the work surface and start kneading, adding flour as needed, until the dough forms a smooth ball but is still sticky to the touch.
3. Let rise and bake as above.
CHEDDAR CHEESE AND SAUSAGE BISCUITS
• MAKES 18
3 cups self-rising flour (preferably White Lily)
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon coarse or kosher salt
7 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1¼ cups buttermilk
3 tablespoons finely chopped andouille sausage, sautéed until crisp, and drained
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place rack in middle of oven.
2. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together into a large bowl. Stir in the grated cheese (reserve 2 tablespoons for the topping) and black pepper. Add the butter pieces to the flour and cut it into the flour with two knives (or with your fingers), moving quickly before the butter gets soft. When butter is the size of peas,pour in the buttermilk, add the sausage, and stir with a wooden spoon just until the dough is in one piece. If the dough is overworked, the biscuits will be tough. (That’s why making biscuits by hand is the secret to light, fluffy, melt-in-your mouth biscuits. Overhandling, especially by using a processor or standing mixer, creates tough biscuits.)
3. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured, dry work surface. With a wooden rolling pin, roll the dough into a rectangle at least ½inch thick. Use a biscuit cutter (or the open end of a glass) to cut rounds of dough. Gently push the dough out of the biscuit cutter and place on an ungreased cookie sheet. The scraps of dough can be gathered and rolled again one more time. (If not baking biscuits immediately, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.)
4. Sprinkle the biscuits with the reserved grated cheese and bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the biscuits have risen and the tops are lightly browned. Serve hot.
SUMMER CHOWDER
• SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 8 AS A FIRST COURSE
6 slices smoky bacon, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 cup minced red onion
¼ cup finely diced celery
3 cups fresh corn kernels (about 5 ears)
3 cups whole milk
½ pound new red potatoes, washed but not peeled and cut into
¼-inch cubes
½ cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
1 pound sea scallops, rinsed and patted dry
Coarse or kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
1. In a medium stockpot over moderate heat, cook the bacon until the fat is rendered and bacon is almost crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Using a
4. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
5. Sprinkle cornmeal on several baking sheets and set aside.
6. Using a serrated knife, separate the dough into halves, then quarters, and then eighths. Cut each eighth into three pieces. Press each piece of dough with the heel of your hand in a circular motion, forming a ball. Transfer the rolls to the prepared pans, cover with a dish towel, and let rise until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours, or cover with plastic wrap and let rise in refrigerator overnight. Bake for about 20 minutes. To test for doneness, tap the bottom of a roll. It should sound hollow.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR HAND MIXING
1. Place the yeast, warm water, and sugar in a large stainless steelbowl and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add salt to yeast mixture along with the eggs, melted butter, milk, and mashed sweet potato. Using a large wooden spoon, beat until thoroughly combined.
2. Beat in flour, 1 cup at a time. Each additional cup makes the dough harder to beat, so this will take concentration and elbow grease. When the dough begins to form a ball, transfer it from the bowl to the work surface and start kneading, adding flour as needed, until the dough forms a smooth ball but is still sticky to the touch.
3. Let rise and bake as above.
CHEDDAR CHEESE AND SAUSAGE BISCUITS
• MAKES 18
3 cups self-rising flour (preferably White Lily)
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon coarse or kosher salt
7 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1¼ cups buttermilk
3 tablespoons finely chopped andouille sausage, sautéed until crisp, and drained
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place rack in middle of oven.
2. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together into a large bowl. Stir in the grated cheese (reserve 2 tablespoons for the topping) and black pepper. Add the butter pieces to the flour and cut it into the flour with two knives (or with your fingers), moving quickly before the butter gets soft. When butter is the size of peas,pour in the buttermilk, add the sausage, and stir with a wooden spoon just until the dough is in one piece. If the dough is overworked, the biscuits will be tough. (That’s why making biscuits by hand is the secret to light, fluffy, melt-in-your mouth biscuits. Overhandling, especially by using a processor or standing mixer, creates tough biscuits.)
3. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured, dry work surface. With a wooden rolling pin, roll the dough into a rectangle at least ½inch thick. Use a biscuit cutter (or the open end of a glass) to cut rounds of dough. Gently push the dough out of the biscuit cutter and place on an ungreased cookie sheet. The scraps of dough can be gathered and rolled again one more time. (If not baking biscuits immediately, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.)
4. Sprinkle the biscuits with the reserved grated cheese and bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the biscuits have risen and the tops are lightly browned. Serve hot.
SUMMER CHOWDER
• SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 8 AS A FIRST COURSE
6 slices smoky bacon, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 cup minced red onion
¼ cup finely diced celery
3 cups fresh corn kernels (about 5 ears)
3 cups whole milk
½ pound new red potatoes, washed but not peeled and cut into
¼-inch cubes
½ cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
1 pound sea scallops, rinsed and patted dry
Coarse or kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
1. In a medium stockpot over moderate heat, cook the bacon until the fat is rendered and bacon is almost crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Using a
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