slowly, stopping occasionally to mix it through. When the crabmeat has absorbed the egg white and feels slightly sticky to the touch, sift the flour over crabmeat and sprinklethe chives, black pepper, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon of the salt evenly over the top. Lift the crabmeat from the bottom of the bowl, turning it over gently, to mix the ingredients without overhandling.
2. Separate the crabmeat into 8 equal portions and gently roll each between the flattened palms of your hands to form loose balls. Flatten slightly and transfer to a plate. Sprinkle both sides liberally with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before cooking.
3. Line a baking pan with paper towels. Fry the crab cakes in two batches to ensure a crisp crust. Using a small (8-inch) heavy skillet that conducts heat well, melt half the butter and oil together until the mixture is foamy and begins to brown. Carefully place the crab cakes in the hot fat and fry until a crust forms, turning only once, about 2 minutes per side. (The fat should be sizzling hot, enabling a crisp crust to form before the crab absorbs the cooking fat. This is the Southern secret to perfect crab cakes.) A small pastry spatula (with a thin tongue) will make lifting and turning the delicate crab cakes a lot easier. Remove the crab cakes and drain in the prepared pan. Cover loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm while you make the second batch.
4. Carefully pour off the cooking fat from the first batch, wipe out the pan, and return it to the heat. Prepare the second batch of crab cakes using the remaining butter and oil.
5. Serve hot with lemon wedges.
SHRIMP SALAD
• SERVES 4 AS A FIRST COURSE OR SANDWICH FILLING, 2 AS A LIGHT LUNCH
1 pound large (21-25 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar
¼ cup finely diced celery
¼ cup finely minced scallions
1 teaspoon coarse or kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1. In a medium stockpot over high heat, bring 4 quarts abundantly salted water to a rolling boil. Add the shrimp and cook until just pink, about 3 minutes. Immediately transfer to a colander and run under cool water to stop the shrimp from cooking any further (only takes several seconds; shrimp should still be slightly warm when dressed). Shake the colander to drain any excess water.
2. In a small bowl, mix together mayonnaise, sour cream, and tarragon. Set aside.
3. In a medium mixing bowl, toss the warm shrimp with the lemon juice and vinegar. Stir in the celery and scallions. Add the mayonnaise mixture, salt, and pepper and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Taste to correct seasoning.
SWEET POTATO ROLLS • MAKES 24
1 package (¼ ounce) dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon coarse or kosher salt
2 large eggs
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
½ cup milk
1½ cups mashed cooked sweet potato
4 to 5 cups all-purpose flour (depends on moisture of sweet potato) Cornmeal
1. Place yeast, warm water, and sugar in the work bowl of a standing mixer and let the combination stand until it becomes foamy, about 5 minutes. Using the paddle attachment, add salt and then beat in the eggs, melted butter, milk, and mashed sweet potato until thoroughly combined.
2. Begin adding the flour, 1 cup at a time, up to 4 cups, reserving the remaining cup. (The rolls will taste better if the dough remains slightly sticky, pulling away from the sides of the bowl without becoming too dry.) Transfer the dough to a large mixing bowl and cover. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. (Alternatively, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.)
3. Lightly flour a clean, dry work surface and transfer the dough to it by inverting the bowl. (This will
2. Separate the crabmeat into 8 equal portions and gently roll each between the flattened palms of your hands to form loose balls. Flatten slightly and transfer to a plate. Sprinkle both sides liberally with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before cooking.
3. Line a baking pan with paper towels. Fry the crab cakes in two batches to ensure a crisp crust. Using a small (8-inch) heavy skillet that conducts heat well, melt half the butter and oil together until the mixture is foamy and begins to brown. Carefully place the crab cakes in the hot fat and fry until a crust forms, turning only once, about 2 minutes per side. (The fat should be sizzling hot, enabling a crisp crust to form before the crab absorbs the cooking fat. This is the Southern secret to perfect crab cakes.) A small pastry spatula (with a thin tongue) will make lifting and turning the delicate crab cakes a lot easier. Remove the crab cakes and drain in the prepared pan. Cover loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm while you make the second batch.
4. Carefully pour off the cooking fat from the first batch, wipe out the pan, and return it to the heat. Prepare the second batch of crab cakes using the remaining butter and oil.
5. Serve hot with lemon wedges.
SHRIMP SALAD
• SERVES 4 AS A FIRST COURSE OR SANDWICH FILLING, 2 AS A LIGHT LUNCH
1 pound large (21-25 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar
¼ cup finely diced celery
¼ cup finely minced scallions
1 teaspoon coarse or kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1. In a medium stockpot over high heat, bring 4 quarts abundantly salted water to a rolling boil. Add the shrimp and cook until just pink, about 3 minutes. Immediately transfer to a colander and run under cool water to stop the shrimp from cooking any further (only takes several seconds; shrimp should still be slightly warm when dressed). Shake the colander to drain any excess water.
2. In a small bowl, mix together mayonnaise, sour cream, and tarragon. Set aside.
3. In a medium mixing bowl, toss the warm shrimp with the lemon juice and vinegar. Stir in the celery and scallions. Add the mayonnaise mixture, salt, and pepper and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Taste to correct seasoning.
SWEET POTATO ROLLS • MAKES 24
1 package (¼ ounce) dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon coarse or kosher salt
2 large eggs
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
½ cup milk
1½ cups mashed cooked sweet potato
4 to 5 cups all-purpose flour (depends on moisture of sweet potato) Cornmeal
1. Place yeast, warm water, and sugar in the work bowl of a standing mixer and let the combination stand until it becomes foamy, about 5 minutes. Using the paddle attachment, add salt and then beat in the eggs, melted butter, milk, and mashed sweet potato until thoroughly combined.
2. Begin adding the flour, 1 cup at a time, up to 4 cups, reserving the remaining cup. (The rolls will taste better if the dough remains slightly sticky, pulling away from the sides of the bowl without becoming too dry.) Transfer the dough to a large mixing bowl and cover. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. (Alternatively, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.)
3. Lightly flour a clean, dry work surface and transfer the dough to it by inverting the bowl. (This will
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