The King of Vodka by Linda Himelstein

the liquid was often variable depending on the temperatures used to produce it—and because distillers often fibbed about the quality of their liquor. He used a common but complex spirit-measurement instrument, known as a hydrometer, to calibrate the percent of alcohol by volume in the spirit. Smirnov relied on this information to determine how much water needed to be added or subtracted from the liquid to achieve whatever strength of alcohol he deemed suitable, usually 38 percent for pure vodka and far less, about 20 percent, for his signature flavored vodkas. * Once finished, Smirnov followed a simple recipe, producing a wide array of flavored vodka drinks.
    One of the most common flavors in the 1860s was anise vodka. For this variety, Smirnov would have needed one-half pound of fresh anise, which was ground into a powder. The powder was put into a vat and mixed with nine shtofs , or 10.8 liters, of spirit. The liquid would then be poured into a large glass container and allowed to sit idle for nine days. On the tenth day, Smirnovwould transfer the liquid into a metal still and heat it under a slow fire until it was fully distilled. What was left was nearly five shtofs , or six liters, of a highly pungent alcohol. But the taste still needed refining. Sugar and more fresh water were added to the liquid, giving it a slightly milky hue. An egg white was folded into the mixture as well, after which the liquid would be run through a charcoal filter and then stored in a bottle for sale. 7
    This kind of vodka was but one of many offerings from Russia’s nineteenth-century vodka makers. Smirnov’s must have been at least as good as anyone else’s out in the market, for his business took off. Demand outstripped supply—especially for the liquor Smirnov was making. Word had begun to seep out among locals that Pyotr Smirnov cared about the taste and the purity of his drinks. Stories surfaced that he selected the purest water, finest spirits, and freshest ingredients for his mixtures. Smirnov exploited these stories, suggesting to his mostly lower-class customers that he alone was devoted to making high-quality, affordable liquor.
    Whether these were mere rumors hatched by Smirnov himself, nobody knows. But the result was the same: Smirnov’s business—and financial well-being—swelled far beyond expectations. More wine cellars opened, and by 1867, within three years of opening his vodka factory, Smirnov had enough money to purchase a two-story stone house on the corner of Pyatnitskaya Street near the embankment of the Moscow River. The house was a mansion with a spacious backyard. It was somewhat worn at the time and displayed few of the trappings of wealth that would later stop pedestrians in mid-stride.
    The house was large enough for the controlling Smirnov to maintain a constant eye on every aspect of his expanding business empire, which now employed roughly twenty-five people. The first floor of the home worked as a cellar and retail outlet. The second floor, spacious as it was, proved ideal for Smirnov’s private office and the living quarters for his brood, which nowincluded four young daughters. The backyard, which featured an uninhabited structure, could be used for everything from storage to housing workers. There was also a deep basement, ideal for preserving wine and liquor.
    The location of the house, too, was superb. It was across from the Kremlin and stood at a well-traveled intersection that exposed any passersby to the vodka maker’s name, which he proudly displayed above the corner entrance to his shop.
    Smirnov’s expansion and growing business platform mirrored what was happening all over Moscow. The city had become the heart of Russia’s industrial revolution. Factories were sprouting up everywhere. Food producers—from makers of sausage to chocolate to spaghetti—set up shop throughout the city, establishing Moscow as the food-industry capital of Russia.