miserable Northumberlands who tried to make Jane Grey queen and sided with Mary of Scotland against Elizabeth. The rose gardens there are beyond anything Iâve seen: acres of roses in a spectacular rainbow of colors. PB told me he spent the weekend with friends in the country who had a double rose garden and didnât offer him so much as a bud to take home. Londoners miss their gardens, he and the other tenants in his building do a little gardening in pots on the roof.
We went from Syon House to Osterly Park, another ancestral home, I forget whose. Iâm learning a little about Nash houses and Wren churches; today at Osterly Park it was Adam walls: polished wood panels covered with intricate marquetry. You can examine a single wall for hours and not see all the details in the carving. In a century dominated by watches, cars, planes, schedules, itâs hard to imagine an age in which men had the endless time and patience needed for such work.
Driving home, PB told me he worked in Hollywood off and on for years as a consultant on films with English locales. The notion of PB in Hollywood in its heyday, when it was a synonym for everything tasteless and overdone, was grotesque at first, but then I realized heâs one of those originals who would be at home in almost any setting; nothing rubs off on him. Heâs been everywhere and knows everybody, heâs very socialâthere are always a dozen invitations propped up on the mantelâbut he seems always a little apart from those around him.
He told me he once spent months hauling an American architect all over England for the Essex House in New York. The Essex House was doing over its cocktail lounge and wanted to re-create an English pub.
âThey sent a chap over here to see me and I drove him round the country to see all the best of the old pubs. He went back to New York and drew up the plans and sent them to me. Iâll show them to you when we get home.â
We got back to Rutland Gate and he showed me the drawings and they were marvelous: a pub with wood-paneled walls, antiqued wooden tables and benches and a high, old-fashioned wooden bar with kegs above it. The pub looked warm and mellow and the woods burnished in the glow of old-fashioned lamps that swung from the ceiling.
âIs the pub still there?â I asked.
âI think so,â he said.
âIâll go see it when I get home,â I said. âDid he write and tell you how it looks?â
âOh, yesââin that light, noncommittal voiceââthe Essex House did the pub in lucite, chrome and black leather.â
He goes to Wales for a week on Saturday. Iâll be gone when he gets back.
Thursday, July 8
Mary Scott took me on a walking tour of Knightsbridge and Kensington, we went to Harrods first because Iâd never seen it. Itâs an incredible store, you can buy anything from a diamond necklace to a live tiger, they have a zoo. I thought of Chester, the sheep dog who lives in my building, he came from Harrods.
On the ground floor thereâs a floristâs shop, and if you want to buy a dozen roses you can choose twelve roses individually. You can pick all buds or all open blooms or half and half, and you can buy one of every color in stock. I ran amok rounding up twelve to send to PB to brighten his flat before he leaves for Wales. Didnât know any other way to thank him.
We wandered the mewses and closes and poked into hidden gardens and alleys. Chelsea, Kensington and Knightsbridge all seem to me self-consciously charming, compared with Regentâs Park. The Scotts live out that way and I told Mrs. Scott if I were able to take a flat in London itâs out Regentâs Park way Iâd want to live. She said itâs not called Regentâs Park, itâs called Marylebone.
They have a spacious flat on Gloucester Place and sheâd made a beautiful salmon mousse for dinner, loaded with cream. Salmon is a great
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