dense, nutty, and quite filling. You may have had them sprouted or as a component in one Asian preparation or another, but I like to pair them with the bright flavour of lemon, coriander, and a touch of creamy salted Greek-style yoghurt.
I add a bit of tempeh to make a meal of it, but you can certainly leave it out and make this a simple bean salad. If you don’t have cooked mung beans on hand, feel free to substitute white beans (tinned is fine). Flageolet beans make a nice variation, as well.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons shoyu, tamari, or soy sauce
225 g tempeh, cut into pencil-thick strips
255 g broccoli or broccolini florets, trimmed into bite-sized pieces
Fine sea salt
225 g cooked mung beans
Grated zest of 1 lemon
20 g packed fresh coriander leaves, chopped
85 g Greek-style yoghurt or crème fraîche
Whisk together the olive oil and shoyu in a wide shallow bowl and add the tempeh. Toss gently until the tempeh is well coated and let it sit for at least 5 minutes.
Place the tempeh, in a single layer, in a large frying pan over medium–high heat. Reserve any left-over olive oil mixture; there should be about 1 tablespoon. Cook the tempeh until both sides are deeply golden, a few minutes on each side. Remove the tempeh from the pan.
Add the reserved olive oil mixture to the frying pan over medium–high heat. Stir in the broccolini and a couple pinches of salt. Cover and cook for just a minute to cook it through. Uncover and stir in the mung beans. Sauté, stirring constantly, until the broccolini is bright and slightly tender and the beans are hot, another couple of minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest and coriander.
In a small bowl, stir together the yoghurt and 2 pinches of salt.
Turn out the bean mixture onto a platter, top with the tempeh and a few dollops of the salted yoghurt, and serve immediately.
SERVES 4
Chickpea Stew
SAFFRON, YOGHURT, GARLIC
The alluring saffron broth that envelops the chickpeas here is what makes this stew memorable. And while the stew looks cream-based, it isn’t; yoghurt is used instead. I think it must be the subtle tang from the yoghurt playing off the saffron, coriander, and sweet paprika that has me coming back to this recipe over and over.
If you have a mortar and pestle handy, you can grind the saffron along with a bit of salt into a powder before adding it to the yoghurt. If you are using tinned chickpeas, they should be rinsed and drained.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large brown onion, finely chopped
Fine sea salt
425 g cooked chickpeas (see A Simple Pot of Beans ), or 1 ½ x 425g tins chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 litre vegetable stock or water
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Scant ¼ teaspoon saffron threads (2 modest pinches)
3 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
225 g plain yoghurt
Sweet paprika
Small bunch fresh coriander, leaves picked and chopped
In a medium–large pot over medium–high heat, combine the olive oil, onion, and a couple of big pinches of salt. Cook until the onions soften up a bit, a few minutes. Stir in the chickpeas, and then add the vegetable stock and garlic. Bring to a simmer and remove from the heat.
In a medium bowl, whisk the saffron and egg yolks, then whisk in the yoghurt. Slowly add a big ladleful, at least 120 ml hot stock to the yoghurt mixture, stirring constantly. Very slowly whisk this mixture back into the pot of soup. Return the pot to medium heat and cook, stirring continuously for another 5 minutes or so, until the broth thickens to the consistency of double (thick) cream, never quite allowing the broth to simmer.
Ladle into individual bowls and serve sprinkled with a touch of paprika and plenty of chopped coriander.
SERVES 4–6
Weeknight Curry
TOFU, COCONUT MILK, SEASONAL VEGETABLES
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