salmon, coley and smoked haddock. Frozen fish doesn’t work so well as it tends to shrink as it defrosts and cooks, so make this your opportunity to trying cooking fresh fish.
POACHED SMOKED HADDOCK FILLETS
Smoked haddock is a simple thing. Don’t buy the sort that is luridly yellow in colour, but more muted in tone, cook it slowly and simply and it will reward you by being delicious. It’s perfect in the slow cooker, especially as it keeps any fishy smells self contained.
Pour 2–3cm of milk into the slow-cooker crock. Don’t use skimmed; full-fat or semi-skimmed is best. Add a generous knob of unsalted butter and a selection of the following herbs: dill, thyme, chives and rosemary. Season with white pepper. This amount of milk should cover up to 4 fillets of fish. Add a little more if you are cooking more.
Put the lid on the slow cooker and gently poach the haddock on low for 2 hours. Lift out of the milk carefully with a slotted spoon and serve with a freshly poached egg for a gorgeous breakfast or brunch.
POACHED SALMON STEAKS
I really like salmon because it can be served hot or cold and it’s a versatile ingredient that features in many dishes from around the world. I used salmon steaks here as they cook well and they tend to be less expensive than salmon fillet.
Try to get salmon steaks that are at least 2–3cm thick (4cm is even better here, so don’t be afraid to ask the fishmonger to cut them specially). A specialist fishmonger will be used to such requests and the supermarket fishmonger will be happy to have something different to do.
Fish is traditionally poached in a court bouillon , which is a stock made from carrot, celery, onion, black pepper and bay leaves. This adds more flavour than water alone and is very easy to make.
Chop a carrot, two stalks of celery and an onion into the slow-cooker crock. Add a teaspoon of black peppercorns and sea salt and a bay leaf. Set the salmon steaks on top of this all.
Add just enough cold water to cover the fish. You can do two layers of steaks with this amount of court bouillon and the cooking time will be the same for four steaks as one. Put the lid on the slow cooker and poach the fish on high for 2 hours. Turn the heat off and allow the fish to sit for 5 minutes.
Lift the steaks out of the court bouillon with a slotted spoon and serve warm as a part of a meal or allow to cool to make delicious salads or sandwiches. This is a perfect summer dish, when cold poached salmon just seems so right alongside summer sun and a small glass of Pimm’s with lots of cucumber. You can skip the standing over a hot stove bit and go straight to the cold drink in a deckchair bit too…
SALMON, CAPER AND DILL LOAF
On Sunday afternoons at my granny’s house, afternoon tea in front of the fire wasn’t complete without a tinned salmon sandwich. Fresh salmon was a once a year event in those days, but tinned salmon was the taste of childhood. It was often accompanied by a slice or two of cucumber and a dollop of salad cream and I adored it.
So it seemed apt to find the basis of this recipe in a handwritten cookbook of my granny’s. Designed to make a tin of salmon serve lots of people, it combines leftover mashed potato and breadcrumbs to lighten it. It makes a lovely lunch with some garden peas or is excellent for a picnic. I just have to serve mine with salad cream. Old habits die hard.
SERVES 4 WITH LEFTOVERS
115g mashed potato
75g breadcrumbs
1 × 212g tin pink salmon, drained
1 tablespoon capers, drained
½ lemon, zested (if waxed, give it a vigorous scrub under the hot tap first)
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
50g fresh parsley and dill (optional), chopped
2 eggs, beaten
salt and pepper
I’m not entirely au fait with the concept of leftover mash as I tend to be able to eat all the mash I make, no matter how much there is, so I often use instant mash when a recipe calls for a small amount. Use whichever is easiest for you here.
Put the mashed potato in a
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