Saveur: The New Comfort Food

Saveur: The New Comfort Food by James Oseland

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Authors: James Oseland
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twine; tuck wings under body; set chicken on a small roasting rack in a roasting pan. Arrange turnip mixture around chicken; scatter with onions. Brush chicken with some herb butter. Roast, basting chicken with herb butter and vegetables with pan juices, until turnips are just tender, about 1 hour.
    3. Toss Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, and sage together in a bowl with remaining oil and salt and pepper; transfer to pan. Continue roasting until a thermometer inserted in chicken’s thigh reads 165°F, 25–30 minutes. Transfer chicken to a platter; cover loosely with foil. Return vegetables to oven; roast until very tender, about 20 minutes more. Carve chicken (following steps shown), squeeze reserved lemon over top, and serve with vegetables.

Thai Red Curry with Roasted Duck

    Gaeng Phed
    The crisp-skinned roasted duck available in Chinatowns across America makes a great shortcut ingredient for many delicious, homey dishes, including this spicy-sweet Thai curry. Ask the counterperson at your local Chinese market to cut the roasted duck into bite-size pieces, which you can then simply toss into the simmering curry sauce.
2½ cups canned unsweetened coconut milk
    ¼ cup Thai red curry paste, such as Mae Ploy brand
    ½ Chinese roasted duck, cut into 2-inch pieces
    10 fresh or frozen Kaffir lime leaves
    1 cup fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch chunks
    1½ tbsp. fish sauce
    1 tbsp. Thai palm sugar
    6 Thai chiles, stemmed
    20 cherry tomatoes, left whole Leaves from 10 stems basil, preferably Thai basil
    4 cups cooked jasmine rice, for serving
    Serves 4
    1. Heat 1 cup of the coconut milk in a large pot over medium heat until it just begins to boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring often, until the liquid is slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the curry paste and continue to simmer the mixture, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is very aromatic, about 5 minutes more.
    2. Add the cut-up duck to the curry mixture and increase the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the duck is heated through, about 7 minutes. Add the remaining coconut milk, lime leaves, and ¾ cup water. Increase the heat to medium-high, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, stirring, until the flavors meld, about 2 minutes. Add the pineapple, fish sauce, palm sugar, and chiles and continue to simmer on medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the pineapple is fork-tender, about 5 minutes more.
    3. Skim off and discard some of the oil from the top of the curry, if you like. Stir in the tomatoes and basil and simmer the curry for about 1 minute more; the tomatoes and basil should retain their shape and bright color. Serve the curry over steamed jasmine rice.

Lamb Chops with Salsa Verde

    Bracing mint cuts through lamb’s richness. Cooks in Spain and Italy often combine mint with anchovies, red chile flakes, garlic, capers, and other herbs in a vibrant salsa verde like this one, a bold match for seared lamb chops.
4 1-inch-thick lamb loin chops (about 1 lb.) or frenched lamb rib chops
    2 tbsp. plus ¾ cup extravirgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
    2 cups loosely packed fresh mint leaves, minced
    ½ cup minced flat-leaf parsley leaves
    2 tbsp. minced fresh tarragon leaves
    1 tbsp. salt-packed capers, soaked, rinsed, and minced
    ¼ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
    6 oil-packed anchovy filets, drained and minced
    1 clove garlic, minced
    Serves 2
    1. Put the lamb chops into a small baking dish, rub with 2 tbsp. oil, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside to rest for 30 minutes.
    2. Meanwhile, make the salsa verde: Combine the mint, parsley, tarragon, capers, chile flakes, anchovies, and garlic in a medium bowl. Slowly drizzle in the remaining oil while stirring with a fork; set aside.
    3. Build a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or set a gas grill to medium-high heat. (Alternatively, heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat.) Add the

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