Sausage Making

Sausage Making by Ryan Farr

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Authors: Ryan Farr
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small (3-in/7.5-cm) links (see page 36) .
   6. Poach the links (see page 41) until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the sausage registers 145°F/63°C. The poached sausages can be eaten immediately, or chill them fully in an ice bath and refrigerate, or freeze for longer storage (see page 46) . When you’re ready to eat the sausages, cut them into medallions and lightly sear in a pan until browned and heated through.

CHAPTER 5
SMOOTH SAUSAGE

    Of all the sausages in this book, smooth-textured sausages are the most technically difficult. Though the basic grinding process remains the same, smooth sausages contain a higher percentage of liquid than other sausage types, and require an additional, technical step: the sausage farce must be puréed in a food processor until smooth and creamy, during which time it must remain very cold. The additional air that is incorporated during this step gives the links a fluffy texture, a nice counterpoint to the snappy casing.
    Emulsifying agents, like eggs and dry milk powder, are often added to smooth sausage. Adding these emulsifiers makes it possible to incorporate more liquid and, in turn, more fat to the meat. Lean beef is also often added to smooth-textured sausage in combination with other meats. Because beef is a stable protein source with a higher water content than other meats, adding beef can often eliminate the need for other emulsifiers.
    Temperature is extremely important when making smooth sausage. Your farce must not ever get warmer than 40°F/4°C or the emulsification will break, just as when making a mayonnaise, and you’ll end up with a sausage that has a grainy texture and a greasy mouth-feel. Your meat should be almost frozen before it is ground and you should carefully monitor the temperature when you process the meat, adding crushed ice in place of water to help keep the mixture cool.

    Master Ratio for Smooth Sausage
    Lean meat (about 95% lean, 5% fat)
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2.00 lb
GRAMS: 908
% OF TOTAL (100%): 66.70
    Crushed ice
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 1 / 4 cups
GRAMS: 272
% OF TOTAL (100%): 20.00
    Fatty meat, such as bacon or pork belly
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.33 lb
GRAMS: 150
% OF TOTAL (100%): 11.00
    Fine sea salt
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
GRAMS: 31
% OF TOTAL (100%): 2.30

ALL-BEEF HOT DOGS
    YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG
    Boneless lean beef (95% lean, 5% fat), such as neck, plate, or shank, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2.10 lb
GRAMS: 949
% OF TOTAL (100%): 69.70
    Beef fat, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 3 / 4 cup
GRAMS: 137
% OF TOTAL (100%): 10.05
    Fine sea salt
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
GRAMS: 23
% OF TOTAL (100%): 1.66
    Paprika
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tsp
GRAMS: 10
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.70
    Granulated garlic
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 / 2 tsp
GRAMS: 5
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.40
    Coarsely ground black pepper
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 / 4 tsp
GRAMS: 4
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.28
    Onion powder
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 / 4 tsp
GRAMS: 3
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.22
    Cure No. 1 (see page 15)
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 / 4 tsp
GRAMS: 1
% OF TOTAL (100%): 0.11
    Crushed ice
U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
GRAMS: 230
% OF TOTAL (100%): 16.88
    Sheep casings, rinsed
    When I think of all-beef hot dogs, I think of the small, snappy links served at Gray’s Papaya in New York City. They’re rich and juicy, griddled until crispy on the outside: the perfect all-beef dog. If you can’t find neck, plate, or shank meat, substitute chuck for all of the meat and fat called for in the recipe.

   1. Place the meat and fat on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid (see page 23) .
   2. In a small bowl, add the salt, paprika, granulated garlic, black pepper, onion powder, and Cure No. 1 and stir to combine.
   3. Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the meat and fat through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice (see page 24) .
   4. Add the

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