heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallot mixture, sage, bay leaf, and thyme and cook until softened. Add the duck and sauté until browned, about 4 minutes. Add the stock, cover, and simmer on low for 1 hour, until the flavors have melded and the sauce is thick. Remove the bay leaf and thyme.
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss into the sauce along with a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Stir for several minutes in the skillet to combine the flavors. Serve the pasta topped with grated cheese.
Arna lessa e bigolo tondo, a la sera i contenta el mondo .
Boiled duck and round bigoli at dinner and all’s right with the world.
— VENETIAN PROVERB
BEHIND THE SHAPE
Bigoli are traditionally made by passing the dough through a special device called a torchio , but nowadays they’re often made with just a regular pasta extruder or the large holes in a home meat grinder attachment. In the Veneto region, bigoli are often made with duck eggs, which act as a wonderful binder for the flour.
ONIONY NEAPOLITAN MEAT SAUCE WITH CANDELE
{ Pasta alla Genovese }
----
SERVES 8 to 10 | REGION : Campania, especially Naples
----
This is a dish you’ll eat midday on Sunday at a friend’s home in Naples, with its succulent aromas greeting you down the block.
The sauce requires lots of onions, so employ whatever tricks you must to prevent tears—just don’t skimp on the onions! When in doubt, add more onions, never less. The onions slow cook with the meat until they take on a dark, caramel-like depth of flavor and silky creaminess. Slow cooked is the key phrase here, because when Italians say “slow,” they mean it—four to five hours slow. You’ll be rewarded with a good-down-to-your-toes sauce that lovingly clings to the pasta.
Olive oil
1 heaping tablespoon lard, optional
3 pounds (1.4 kg) beef chuck or shoulder, cut into 4 chunks
About 2 cups (480 ml) dry white wine
6 ½ pounds (3 kg) yellow onions, thinly sliced
2 celery stalks, very finely minced
1 large carrot, very finely minced
2 pounds (910 g) candele , broken into pieces, or any thick pasta, preferably Garofalo brand
Salt
Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
In the bottom of a large saucepot, heat 3 to 4 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the lard, if using, and the beef. Brown the beef on all sides. Do not salt the meat yet. Once the meat has browned on all sides, pour in 1 ½ cups (360 ml) of the wine, scraping up any brown bits on the bottom of the pot. Cook until the wine completely evaporates, then stir in the onions, celery, and carrots. Put a piece of aluminum foil directly on top of the onions, then cover the pot with a lid. Reduce the heat to very low and cook for 3 hours, until the meat is fork tender. Remove the meat to a serving platter and cover. Add the remaining ½ cup (120 ml) wine to the sauce and continue to cook the sauce for another hour, until the onions are very soft and the mixture is thick and dark golden.
When you are ready to serve, boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss in a large serving bowl with the onion sauce, mixing in lots of grated cheese. If you like, you can add in a little of the meat, shredded into small pieces, or serve the meat as a second course. Serve the pasta with grated cheese and a peppermill on the side, so guests can add to taste.
BY ANY OTHER NAME
This sauce is called alla Genovese , but despite its name it is not from Genoa. There’s lots of debate in Naples as to the name’s origin. According to the two most popular legends, either it was first cooked in Naples, but by a chef from Genoa, or the chef’s last name was actually “Genovese.”
MEAT & PEAR OPEN RAVIOLI
{ Casconcelli aperti alla Bergamasca }
----
SERVES 4 | REGION: Lombardy, especially Bergamo
----
The concept of using ravioli filling as a condiment for pasta is very liberating! Open ravioli was popularized by the famous Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi, who
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss into the sauce along with a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Stir for several minutes in the skillet to combine the flavors. Serve the pasta topped with grated cheese.
Arna lessa e bigolo tondo, a la sera i contenta el mondo .
Boiled duck and round bigoli at dinner and all’s right with the world.
— VENETIAN PROVERB
BEHIND THE SHAPE
Bigoli are traditionally made by passing the dough through a special device called a torchio , but nowadays they’re often made with just a regular pasta extruder or the large holes in a home meat grinder attachment. In the Veneto region, bigoli are often made with duck eggs, which act as a wonderful binder for the flour.
ONIONY NEAPOLITAN MEAT SAUCE WITH CANDELE
{ Pasta alla Genovese }
----
SERVES 8 to 10 | REGION : Campania, especially Naples
----
This is a dish you’ll eat midday on Sunday at a friend’s home in Naples, with its succulent aromas greeting you down the block.
The sauce requires lots of onions, so employ whatever tricks you must to prevent tears—just don’t skimp on the onions! When in doubt, add more onions, never less. The onions slow cook with the meat until they take on a dark, caramel-like depth of flavor and silky creaminess. Slow cooked is the key phrase here, because when Italians say “slow,” they mean it—four to five hours slow. You’ll be rewarded with a good-down-to-your-toes sauce that lovingly clings to the pasta.
Olive oil
1 heaping tablespoon lard, optional
3 pounds (1.4 kg) beef chuck or shoulder, cut into 4 chunks
About 2 cups (480 ml) dry white wine
6 ½ pounds (3 kg) yellow onions, thinly sliced
2 celery stalks, very finely minced
1 large carrot, very finely minced
2 pounds (910 g) candele , broken into pieces, or any thick pasta, preferably Garofalo brand
Salt
Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
In the bottom of a large saucepot, heat 3 to 4 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the lard, if using, and the beef. Brown the beef on all sides. Do not salt the meat yet. Once the meat has browned on all sides, pour in 1 ½ cups (360 ml) of the wine, scraping up any brown bits on the bottom of the pot. Cook until the wine completely evaporates, then stir in the onions, celery, and carrots. Put a piece of aluminum foil directly on top of the onions, then cover the pot with a lid. Reduce the heat to very low and cook for 3 hours, until the meat is fork tender. Remove the meat to a serving platter and cover. Add the remaining ½ cup (120 ml) wine to the sauce and continue to cook the sauce for another hour, until the onions are very soft and the mixture is thick and dark golden.
When you are ready to serve, boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss in a large serving bowl with the onion sauce, mixing in lots of grated cheese. If you like, you can add in a little of the meat, shredded into small pieces, or serve the meat as a second course. Serve the pasta with grated cheese and a peppermill on the side, so guests can add to taste.
BY ANY OTHER NAME
This sauce is called alla Genovese , but despite its name it is not from Genoa. There’s lots of debate in Naples as to the name’s origin. According to the two most popular legends, either it was first cooked in Naples, but by a chef from Genoa, or the chef’s last name was actually “Genovese.”
MEAT & PEAR OPEN RAVIOLI
{ Casconcelli aperti alla Bergamasca }
----
SERVES 4 | REGION: Lombardy, especially Bergamo
----
The concept of using ravioli filling as a condiment for pasta is very liberating! Open ravioli was popularized by the famous Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi, who
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