Lyttelton's Britain

Lyttelton's Britain by Iain Pattinson Page A

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Authors: Iain Pattinson
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surely proof enough. In honour of his many achievements, Buxton recently bestowed upon Tim the freedom of the city of Sheffield.
    The town is of course world famous for high quality mineral waters from its ancient spa. Although I am required to point out that they are also available from other good supermarkets. Scientists recently worked out that the limestone-filtered water that we drink today is nearly 5000 years old, when they read on the label the words ‘best before July 4900 BC ’.
    An architectural highlight of the town is the Royal Hospital which was formerly the Duke of Devonshire’s Great Stables, housing his 110 racehorses. As a result, the first four patients contracted equine distemper. On the plus side, the hospital garden’s roses are doing very well.
    Another fine local building is Chatsworth House. According to the official guide, it contains portraits by Van Dyke and work by Franz Hals and Rembrandt hangs in the long gallery. So best not take small children.
    Probably Buxton’s most famous historical visitor was Mary Queen of Scots, who went there to take the waters in search ofa cure for her dropsy-induced headaches. A problem that was later cured permanently by Elizabeth I.
    Mary stayed at the Old Hall Hotel, where she famously scratched messages to the townsfolk on a window pane with her diamond ring. These included: ‘I am the only true Queen of England’ and ‘why does the shower curtain never seem to work?’
    No visit to Buxton would be complete without a visit to its Opera House. When permission to build was granted, the people of Buxton looked to the renowned theatrical architect Frank Matcham to design a unique construction, which he duly did, copying it from his other 27 identical unique theatres. Matcham was highly skilled in theatre design and it was his notion to have the stage sharply raked. Several years later he was called back to install a roof, and the autumn falling leaf problem was solved.
    Early performances at the new Opera House included many by the great stars of the day, and it was there that the great Dame Nellie Melba was honoured by having a dessert named after her. ‘Nellie Melba’ was of course a stage name, she having in fact been christened ‘Sherry Trifle’.
    The surrounding Peak District has a rich history. It was there that the Romans fought a long campaign with the Iceni, which languished in stalemate on the River Wye for many years. However, the ferocious British tribe would always make a quick attack whenever they saw an opening in the Romans’ Wye Front.
    Nearby is the cavern known as the Robber Poole, named after a notorious highwayman who lived there. However, when additional troops were needed to protect the town from attack, he was pardoned after he rode non-stop to London on an unsaddledwild stallion. His reward was a small plot of land where it was reported he tended his two acres.
    The nearby system of caves is well known for its underground rivers and tight-twisting tunnels, and is where potholers can come to test their skills. Alternatively, they can blindfold themselves and climb fully clothed into a chest freezer full of muddy water with a couple of paving slabs strapped to their sides.
    Surrounding Buxton are the beautiful hills of the Derbyshire Peak District, where many rock climbers enjoy their sport, and, indeed, Sir Edmund Hillary came to the area to prepare before going off to Everest to become a double glazing salesman.
    Like other places in the Peak District, Buxton still practises the ancient ritual of ‘well-dressing’. This involves setting up a wooden sacred image covered with clay and then coating it with a mosaic of flower petals, leaves, moss and grass cuttings. The whole process can last up to three weeks and everyone is welcome. Anyone thinking they might enjoy a visit to Buxton to witness this, really ought to get a life.

NOTTINGHAM

    N OTTINGHAM is a fine city with a fascinating history. The legendary people’s hero Robin

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