butter or oil. Serve with a sauce rémoulade (page 35) or tartar sauce (pages 35–36).
Cusk
Even more streamlined than the hake, this fish is distinguished by a long black fin extending from just behind the head to the tail. It is found in northern waters and is nearly always caught on line. It puts up a good fight when hooked.
You will not often see the whole fish in the markets, but quite a bit of it is sold as fillets that are labeled something else besides cusk. It has good flavor and texture and ought to be more popular in its own right.
Cusk may be prepared in any of the ways you prepare haddock or fresh cod.
Eels
Eels are erroneously called freshwater fish by most French authorities. They are both freshwater and marine. All the European and American eels are born in the same place, a deep spot in the ocean south of Bermuda. From there they migrate to localities previously frequented by their parents — European eels go to Europe, and American eels to America. They ascend the freshwater streams, stay for a while, and then return to the spawning grounds in the Atlantic.
Eels are a traditional dish during the Italian celebration of Christmas Eve, and they are in greatest demand at the holiday season. Smoked eels are available all year and fresh eels can now be bought the year round in markets that maintain tanks in which to keep them.
PAN-FRIED EELS
First, the eels must be skinned. The traditional method is to nail the head of the eel to a wall and then skin it with one full sweep of the hand. You may also cut the eel skin around the head, and peel it back very slowly. You may need the aid of pliers to get it started. Once the eels are skinned, remove the intestines, wash the fish, and cut them into 3-inch pieces. Dip these in flour and sauté them in butter or oil until delicately browned. Season to taste and serve plain or with tartar sauce (pages 35–36).
EELS SAUTÉ PROVENÇALE
2 large eels or several small ones
Flour
6 tablespoons olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Skin and clean the eels, cut in 3-inch pieces, and dredge with flour. Heat the olive oil in a skillet and sauté the pieces of eel quickly according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). When they are done, season to taste and add the garlic, and parsley. Toss them about in the pan for a minute or two. Serve the eel with the garlic and parsley poured over the top.
EELS NAPOLITANA
2 or 3 large eels
2 cups browned crumbs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
11/2 teaspoons sugar
Flour
Beaten egg
Butter
Lemon wedges
Skin and wash the eels and cut into pieces. Mix the crumbs, salt, cinnamon, and sugar. Dip the eels in flour, then the beaten egg, and finally in the crumb mixture. Sauté quickly in butter according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). Serve with lemon wedges.
NOTE : The traditional way of preparing this dish is to tie the eel on a spit and roast it in front of the fire, basting it with its own juices. However, this is a little involved for most people.
EELS COMMACHIO
The Italians, like many Europeans, are very fond of eels. In fact, true international gourmets find it difficult to understand why Americans neglect this delicious fish. Here is a famous Italian recipe that does justice to it.
6 eels
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large onion, sliced fine
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sage
1 cup tomato paste
1 cup white wine
Skin and clean the eels and cut them in 3-inch lengths. Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the onion, sage, and the pieces of eel. Sauté according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10) until nicely browned. Season to taste; add the tomato paste and white wine. Cover and simmer until the eel is tender. Serve with rice baked in broth.
MATELOTE OF EELS NORMANDIE
See pages 51–52.
MATELOTE PROVENÇALE
This is prepared in the same way as the preceding recipe, except that white wine and water (half and half) are
Cusk
Even more streamlined than the hake, this fish is distinguished by a long black fin extending from just behind the head to the tail. It is found in northern waters and is nearly always caught on line. It puts up a good fight when hooked.
You will not often see the whole fish in the markets, but quite a bit of it is sold as fillets that are labeled something else besides cusk. It has good flavor and texture and ought to be more popular in its own right.
Cusk may be prepared in any of the ways you prepare haddock or fresh cod.
Eels
Eels are erroneously called freshwater fish by most French authorities. They are both freshwater and marine. All the European and American eels are born in the same place, a deep spot in the ocean south of Bermuda. From there they migrate to localities previously frequented by their parents — European eels go to Europe, and American eels to America. They ascend the freshwater streams, stay for a while, and then return to the spawning grounds in the Atlantic.
Eels are a traditional dish during the Italian celebration of Christmas Eve, and they are in greatest demand at the holiday season. Smoked eels are available all year and fresh eels can now be bought the year round in markets that maintain tanks in which to keep them.
PAN-FRIED EELS
First, the eels must be skinned. The traditional method is to nail the head of the eel to a wall and then skin it with one full sweep of the hand. You may also cut the eel skin around the head, and peel it back very slowly. You may need the aid of pliers to get it started. Once the eels are skinned, remove the intestines, wash the fish, and cut them into 3-inch pieces. Dip these in flour and sauté them in butter or oil until delicately browned. Season to taste and serve plain or with tartar sauce (pages 35–36).
EELS SAUTÉ PROVENÇALE
2 large eels or several small ones
Flour
6 tablespoons olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Skin and clean the eels, cut in 3-inch pieces, and dredge with flour. Heat the olive oil in a skillet and sauté the pieces of eel quickly according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). When they are done, season to taste and add the garlic, and parsley. Toss them about in the pan for a minute or two. Serve the eel with the garlic and parsley poured over the top.
EELS NAPOLITANA
2 or 3 large eels
2 cups browned crumbs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
11/2 teaspoons sugar
Flour
Beaten egg
Butter
Lemon wedges
Skin and wash the eels and cut into pieces. Mix the crumbs, salt, cinnamon, and sugar. Dip the eels in flour, then the beaten egg, and finally in the crumb mixture. Sauté quickly in butter according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). Serve with lemon wedges.
NOTE : The traditional way of preparing this dish is to tie the eel on a spit and roast it in front of the fire, basting it with its own juices. However, this is a little involved for most people.
EELS COMMACHIO
The Italians, like many Europeans, are very fond of eels. In fact, true international gourmets find it difficult to understand why Americans neglect this delicious fish. Here is a famous Italian recipe that does justice to it.
6 eels
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large onion, sliced fine
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sage
1 cup tomato paste
1 cup white wine
Skin and clean the eels and cut them in 3-inch lengths. Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the onion, sage, and the pieces of eel. Sauté according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10) until nicely browned. Season to taste; add the tomato paste and white wine. Cover and simmer until the eel is tender. Serve with rice baked in broth.
MATELOTE OF EELS NORMANDIE
See pages 51–52.
MATELOTE PROVENÇALE
This is prepared in the same way as the preceding recipe, except that white wine and water (half and half) are
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