Emily Post's Great Get-Togethers by Anna Post

with salt and pepper if needed. Serve immediately.
    Crisp Fried Sage Leaves
    These make a nice garnish for the Roasted Butternut Squash and Apple Soup with Sage (page 81) and are a great little appetizer, too. Makes approximately 20
    1 bunch fresh sage leaves (about 20 medium leaves)
    Vegetable oil like canola or safflower for frying
    1. Rinse and pat dry the sage leaves. Pour an inch of oil into a medium skillet and heat until very hot (the surface should appear wavy but should not smoke). Test one sage leaf to see if it fries crisp quickly, without absorbing too much oil.
    2. Carefully lower the sage leaves in small batches into the hot oil and cook until crisp, about 15 seconds. With a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Use immediately or hold at room temperature for up to 3 hours.
    Buttermilk Feather Cake with Nutmeg
    This cake may be plain, but it’s not lacking in finesse. It’s featherlight, moist from the buttermilk, and nutmeg scented—simply scrumptious. Because it’s so restrained, it’s versatile, good with pear compote and crème fraîche or whipped cream, or in season with juicy ripe fruit (like peeled, lightly sugared peaches, pitted sliced plums, or berries), or just pristinely on its own. P.S. Don’t skimp on the multiple siftings—it ensures the featherlight texture.
    Makes one 9-inch, 2-layer cake. Serves 8
    About 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
    2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
    1 teaspoon baking powder
    1 teaspoon baking soda
    ¼ teaspoon salt
    1 stick (¼ pound) unsalted butter, softened
    1½ cups granulated sugar
    3 large eggs, at room temperature
    1 teaspoon vanilla extract
    1 cup buttermilk
    Buttercream Filling (recipe follows)
    Confectioners’ sugar (optional)
    1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter two 9-inch round cake tins. Line the bottoms with parchment or wax paper cut to fit. Butter the paper, then flour the tins and tap out the excess.
    2. Onto a piece of wax paper, sift the flour. Spoon the sifted flour into dry measure cups and sweep level; return the rest of the flour to the canister. Onto a piece of wax paper, sift together three times the 2 cups sifted flour, the nutmeg, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
    3. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer on medium, cream the butter. Gradually beat in the granulated sugar and beat until light and fluffy. One at a time, beat in the eggs just until incorporated. Beat in the vanilla. Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture in 3 batches, alternating with the buttermilk in 2 batches, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans.
    4. Bake until golden and the center, when pressed gently with a finger, springs back (20 to 25 minutes). A tester inserted into a layer should come out clean. Let the layers cool in the pans on a rack for 10 minutes. Turn the layers out onto the rack, turn right side up, and cool completely.
    5. Invert one layer onto a cake plate. Spread the buttercream over the layer almost to the edges, using it all. Top with the second layer, right side up. Dust the top of the cake with confectioners’ sugar if desired.
    Buttercream Filling
    Too much buttercream is sometimes too much of a good thing. That’s why we like this formula, which produces a restrained amount of buttercream that neatly fills but does not overwhelm the delicate feather cake. Makes enough to fill a 9-inch cake
    6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, softened
    1 cup confectioners’ sugar
    2 tablespoons whipping cream
    1 tablespoon brandy
    Pinch of salt
    1. In a bowl, with an electric mixer on medium speed, cream together the butter and sugar until smooth. Beat in the whipping cream and brandy. Taste. Beat in a pinch of salt, if needed.
    2. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day. Return to room temperature before using.
    Too Much vs. Too Little: Getting the Portions Just Right
    R egardless of what menu you’re