Around the Passover Table

Around the Passover Table by Jayne Cohen Page A

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Authors: Jayne Cohen
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hours. Or marinate in a resealable plastic bag. Turn the chicken occasionally in the marinade to ensure even flavoring.
    BEAT the eggs well in a wide, shallow bowl or pie pan. Stir together the matzoh meal and lemon zest and spread on a large sheet of wax paper or a plate. Taking one cutlet at a time, dip it into the beaten egg, coating well on both sides. Let the excess egg drip back into the bowl. Dredge the cutlets on both sides in the matzoh meal mixture. To prevent loose crumbs from falling off and burning in the hot oil, pat the cutlets firmly on each side so the matzoh meal adheres, then place them on a rack and let stand for about 15 minutes to set the coating.
    HEAT the 1 ⁄ 4 cup olive oil in a 10- to 12-inch heavy sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking. Add the cutlets (in batches, if necessary, to avoid crowding the pan), and sauté them for about 2 minutes on each side, until golden and cooked through.
    TRANSFER the cutlets as they are done to a paper towel–lined baking sheet to absorb excess oil, keeping them warm, if necessary, in a 200°F oven, until the rest are done.
    PREPARE the salad: in a bowl, combine the tomato, onions, olive oil, lemon juice, oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the greens and toss well.
    SERVE the cutlets topped with the salad, accompanied by the lemon wedges.

    COOK’S NOTE : Divide the seasoned matzoh meal in half. When the first half becomes ragged with little clumps of egg from dredging the cutlets, replace with the reserved fresh half.

    BRAISED BRISKET WITH THIRTY-SIX CLOVES OF GARLIC
    yield: 8 GENEROUS SERVINGS
    In my take on the French classic, chicken with forty cloves of garlic becomes brisket with thirty-six cloves. All that feisty garlic turns sweet and mellow with gentle braising; when pureed, it forms a seductive gravy, which is finished with a zing of chopped raw garlic and lemon zest.
    Why thirty-six cloves? Beginning with aleph, which equals one, each letter of the Hebrew alphabet stands for a number, and so every word has a numerical value. All multiples of eighteen, the numerical value of the Hebrew word chai, life, are considered especially auspicious, which is why donations to charity and wedding and bar mitzvah gifts are often given in multiples of eighteen.
    About 36 fat, unpeeled garlic cloves (1 2 ⁄ 3 to 2 cups) or an equivalent amount of smaller cloves, plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic
    3 tablespoons olive oil
    A first- or second-cut beef brisket (about 5 pounds), trimmed of excess fat, wiped with a damp paper towel, and patted dry
    2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
    3 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade , or good-quality, low-sodium purchased
    3 or 4 fresh thyme sprigs, or 2 teaspoons dried leaves
    2 fresh rosemary sprigs, plus 1 teaspoon chopped leaves
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper
    1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
    PREHEAT the oven to 325°F.
    DROP the garlic cloves into a small saucepan of boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain immediately. Peel as soon as the garlic is cool enough to handle. Set aside on paper towels to dry.
    HEAT the olive oil over medium-high heat in a heavy-bottomed roasting pan or casserole large enough to accommodate the meat in one layer. Use two burners, if necessary. Add the brisket and brown well on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the brisket to a platter and set aside. (Or brown the meat under the broiler: place the brisket, fat side up, on a foil-lined broiler pan under a preheated broiler. Broil for 5 to 6 minutes on each side, until browned. Don’t allow it to develop a hard, dark crust, which might make the meat tough or bitter. Move the meat around as necessary, so it sears evenly.)
    POUR off all but about 1 tablespoon of fat remaining in the pan and add the garlic cloves. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic edges are tinged with gold. Add the vinegar and deglaze the pan, scraping up all the browned bits from the bottom with

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