Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects by Amy Butler Page A
Authors: Amy Butler
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enclose the front pocket section in between the 2 back panels.)
b. Starting at the top left corner of the back panel, where the boning is attached, stitch a 1 / 2 ″ seam over the top of the panel, down the right side, and across the bottom raw edges, backstitching at each end. (The panels will be stiff and bulky at this point.) ( FIGURE 16B )
c. Using your scissors, trim the 2 bottom corners of the back panels, making sure not to clip your stitching. Then, trim the seam allowances to 1 / 4 ″ across the curve at the top of the bag and along the outside curve on the side of the panels.
Step 17. Turn your Hanging Toiletry Basket Right side out.
Pull the Right side of the Hanging Toiletry Basket through the opening on the left side of the attached back panels. Use a turning tool to push out the seams and corners on the panels, and press the seams flat. Then, fold under 1 / 2 ″ at the open raw edge on the second back panel and pin the opening closed. Slip stitch the opening closed by hand.
Step 18. Make a large buttonhole * at the top of your Hanging Toiletry Basket.
a. Starting at the top of the back panel, measure down from the top finished edge on the center crease and make marks at 1″, 2 1 / 2 ″, and 4″. Then, center a quarter over the center crease below the 1″ mark and using your chalk pencil draw a circle completely around the quarter.
* See page 170 for an explanation of making a buttonhole.
b. Next, starting on the left side of the circle, draw a line toward the center crease to the 2 1 / 2 ″ mark. Then, draw a vertical line from the 2 1 / 2 ″ mark down to the 4″ mark on the left side of the center crease. Repeat this step on the right side of the circle; use the buttonhole drawn on your pattern piece as a visual guide. This will be your guideline to make your buttonhole. Erase any chalk marks inside the buttonhole. ( FIGURE 18B )
c. Using a small, tight zigzag stitch on your machine and starting at the 4″ mark, stitch up the left vertical chalk line, following it around the left side, over the top of the circle, and down the right side. Once you stitch to the bottom of the chalk guideline on the right side of the center crease at the 4″ mark, use a wide zigzag stitch to stitch in place 5 or 6 times to secure the 2 ends of the buttonhole.
FIGURE 18B
d. To cut open the buttonhole, start at the 4″ mark in the middle of the 2 zigzag stitch lines, insert the pointed end of your seam ripper through all of the layers of the back panel, and cut through the back panel to open up the bottom part of the buttonhole, and then use your scissors to cut out the inside of the circle at the top part of the buttonhole, making sure not to clip your stitches with either tool.
Step 19. Make a pleat on each side of the Hanging Toiletry Basket.
Turn the Hanging Toiletry Basket so the lining side is facing out. Match up the side crease of the basket with the back seam that attaches the basket to the back panel and pin it together. Starting at the top finished edge of the basket, stitch a seam 1 1 / 2 ″ down along the side crease, backstitching at each end. Then, to finish the project, turn the Hanging Toiletry Basket Right side out, using a turning tool to push out the 4 bottom corners, and press. ( FIGURE 19 )
FIGURE 19
OVERSIZED LAUNDRY BAG
FINISHED SIZE: 20 1 / 2 ″ WIDE × 30 1 / 2 ″ TALL | BOTTOM PANEL: 13″ DIAMETER
With its heavy-duty construction, this biggie can handle a mountain of laundry. The comfy shoulder strap and simple drawstring closure will make those dreaded trips to the launderette much more bearable. Of course, it’s not just for laundry—you can use it to carry all sorts of stuff. Soon you’ll be wondering how you ever got by without it!
OVERSIZED LAUNDRY BAG
FABRICS
• 3 yards (44″- or 60″-wide) sturdy cotton fabric for the outer top and bottom panels, the lining, the strap, and the drawstring (referred to as the “main fabric”)
• 1 / 2 yard (44″- or
b. Starting at the top left corner of the back panel, where the boning is attached, stitch a 1 / 2 ″ seam over the top of the panel, down the right side, and across the bottom raw edges, backstitching at each end. (The panels will be stiff and bulky at this point.) ( FIGURE 16B )
c. Using your scissors, trim the 2 bottom corners of the back panels, making sure not to clip your stitching. Then, trim the seam allowances to 1 / 4 ″ across the curve at the top of the bag and along the outside curve on the side of the panels.
Step 17. Turn your Hanging Toiletry Basket Right side out.
Pull the Right side of the Hanging Toiletry Basket through the opening on the left side of the attached back panels. Use a turning tool to push out the seams and corners on the panels, and press the seams flat. Then, fold under 1 / 2 ″ at the open raw edge on the second back panel and pin the opening closed. Slip stitch the opening closed by hand.
Step 18. Make a large buttonhole * at the top of your Hanging Toiletry Basket.
a. Starting at the top of the back panel, measure down from the top finished edge on the center crease and make marks at 1″, 2 1 / 2 ″, and 4″. Then, center a quarter over the center crease below the 1″ mark and using your chalk pencil draw a circle completely around the quarter.
* See page 170 for an explanation of making a buttonhole.
b. Next, starting on the left side of the circle, draw a line toward the center crease to the 2 1 / 2 ″ mark. Then, draw a vertical line from the 2 1 / 2 ″ mark down to the 4″ mark on the left side of the center crease. Repeat this step on the right side of the circle; use the buttonhole drawn on your pattern piece as a visual guide. This will be your guideline to make your buttonhole. Erase any chalk marks inside the buttonhole. ( FIGURE 18B )
c. Using a small, tight zigzag stitch on your machine and starting at the 4″ mark, stitch up the left vertical chalk line, following it around the left side, over the top of the circle, and down the right side. Once you stitch to the bottom of the chalk guideline on the right side of the center crease at the 4″ mark, use a wide zigzag stitch to stitch in place 5 or 6 times to secure the 2 ends of the buttonhole.
FIGURE 18B
d. To cut open the buttonhole, start at the 4″ mark in the middle of the 2 zigzag stitch lines, insert the pointed end of your seam ripper through all of the layers of the back panel, and cut through the back panel to open up the bottom part of the buttonhole, and then use your scissors to cut out the inside of the circle at the top part of the buttonhole, making sure not to clip your stitches with either tool.
Step 19. Make a pleat on each side of the Hanging Toiletry Basket.
Turn the Hanging Toiletry Basket so the lining side is facing out. Match up the side crease of the basket with the back seam that attaches the basket to the back panel and pin it together. Starting at the top finished edge of the basket, stitch a seam 1 1 / 2 ″ down along the side crease, backstitching at each end. Then, to finish the project, turn the Hanging Toiletry Basket Right side out, using a turning tool to push out the 4 bottom corners, and press. ( FIGURE 19 )
FIGURE 19
OVERSIZED LAUNDRY BAG
FINISHED SIZE: 20 1 / 2 ″ WIDE × 30 1 / 2 ″ TALL | BOTTOM PANEL: 13″ DIAMETER
With its heavy-duty construction, this biggie can handle a mountain of laundry. The comfy shoulder strap and simple drawstring closure will make those dreaded trips to the launderette much more bearable. Of course, it’s not just for laundry—you can use it to carry all sorts of stuff. Soon you’ll be wondering how you ever got by without it!
OVERSIZED LAUNDRY BAG
FABRICS
• 3 yards (44″- or 60″-wide) sturdy cotton fabric for the outer top and bottom panels, the lining, the strap, and the drawstring (referred to as the “main fabric”)
• 1 / 2 yard (44″- or
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