little old lady with blue hair; she made a remarkably rude gesture at me as she went by. After that I concentrated on driving.
The streets of Garmisch were full of vacationers, winter-sports fans, and cows. The cows are part of the local color, and they have the right of way. They were not the only distractions; the shop windows bulged with goodies, including some gorgeous ski and après-ski costumes. I managed to getthrough the town without incident, bovine or otherwise, and took the road to Bad Steinbach.
The highway climbed steadily up into the foot-hills, passing through pine-shrouded shadows and out again into the sunlight of open meadows frosted with white. The sky ahead was a deep pure blue, framing the majestic outlines of the snow-capped Alpine peaks. I wished my mood matched the serenity of the scenery; the closer I got to Bad Steinbach, the more my vague sense of apprehension deepened.
The village huddles on a few acres of level ground, with the high hills enclosing it like a rampart. Some of the streets leading off the central square go up at a thirty-degree angle, and outlying houses cling precariously to the slopes. The roads that give access to them looked like tangled white ribbons against the deep green of the pine-covered hills. A broader panel of snow slashed across the side of the Hexenhutâthe ski slope, one of the trickiest in the area because of the trees bordering it so narrowly. A lift operates from the station behind the hotel; I could see a bright car swinging in its ascent as I pulled into a parking place near the central fountain, with its oversized statue of Saint Emmeram. The fountain was dry now, and a fringe of icicles lengthened the saintâs beard.
(In case you are interestedâand I canât imagine why you should beâEmmeram was one of the first missionaries to the heathen Bavarians. He died in 715 or thereabouts.)
Most Bavarian villages look as if they had been designed for a production of Babes in Toyland . The Marktplatz of Bad Steinbach is no exception. Onone side the serene, austere facade of the St. Michaelskirche gives no hint of the baroque fantasies within. The two adjoining sides are lined with houses and shops, fairytale quaint with their wooden balconies and painted fronts. Some of the balconies were draped with bright red geraniums, and I gaped at them for a moment until I realized they must be plastic. Facing the church, on the fourth side of the square, is the hotel. The only discordant note is the town parking lot, but it has to be there because theyâd have had to blast out a piece of the mountain to get any more level ground.
In the summer, there are tables and bright umbrellas outside the hotel restaurant and the cafés. At least I assume there were, since that is the custom; I had never visited the village in the summer. There were no tables outside that day. However, the restaurant appeared to be doing good business, to judge by the people passing in and out.
Like the English, the Bavarians eat all the time. Unlike the English, they have not invented separate names for their various snack times; instead of elevenses and teatime and whatever, they refer to all of them as Brotzeit . It was just past 11 A.M. A reasonable time for Brotzeit .
The first thing I noticed was that the lobby had been modernizedânot extensively, just enough to add a few jarring notes to what had been a charming period ambiance. There was a souvenir counter with racks of cheap beer steins and dolls dressed in Bavarian costume and pillows embroidered with mottoes like âI did it in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.â The old wooden registration desk had been replaced by a shiny plastic structure. Hoffman wasnâton duty. The man behind the counter was someone I had not seen beforeâyoung and heavy-set, inappropriately attired in a short-sleeved gaudy print shirt. I didnât linger but went straight through into the restaurant.
It had undergone a similar
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