sinking sun and the town while the peaks hit his right hand side and unleashed their power, doing their best to take him out of their equation. From the look of the sun’s position, he didn’t have long to get a wave in – it was now or never.
Only, man, he was miles out. Could barely see the beach. His distance from shore made him feel sick and he had to force his bladder to stay shut. It was a time when he’d have to concentrate like he’d never done before and distractions like bodily functions couldn’t be allowed to get in the way.
The waves to the right sounded like a thunder storm. He would have to make sure he didn’t get caught inside.
And then came the gap, as if from nowhere.
He paddled hard into the take-off area.
There was a big set of waves on the horizon.
He duck-dived the first and managed to scrape over it.
The next was huge, but he thought his board could take it.
He turned, paddled, pressed down with his chest. This was the one. No way he could back out no matter how scared he felt. He just had to go. Suddenly he arrived at the trigger point and he felt the wave take over.
He jumped. Concentrated. Felt the rush of super-speed. Wondered whether the fins would hold. Stayed super low to touch water and turn. He was in deep and it was perfect.
“ Yeehah.”
Judging the shoulder and wall, he decided to stall for the tube. Slash for the high line and travelled. The tube was like a house – a castle wall even - its lip enveloping over to engulf him in silence.
For a brief moment he admired the setting sun glimmering on the wave face ahead, a hue of pink to it that made him smile, then he threw his arms forward to accelerate out.
The acceleration was tremendous and he felt in control of everything. Right then he knew it would be the best wave of his whole life. Endorphins rushed inside his head as he admired the beauty around him. Instinctively he knew he was in the perfect spot.
“ Go baby, go.”
And then it changed.
Just ahead, the water sucked back from the sand bar. The wave grew and grew, 4 times his height, now 5. It was really bad news. His bladder gave up the fight and he felt the hot stream down the inside of his left leg.
A minute earlier he hadn’t wanted to be anywhere else, now it was the last place on earth he’d choose.
The wave had turned ugly, like the wicked queen in Snow White suddenly revealing her true colours. He’d read the story to his children earlier that day. His children! He had children. He had to get back to them, somehow.
Should he pull into the face of the barrel and risk being sucked up and over or out run? He couldn’t think quickly enough.
It was time for one last acceleration.
Out of the tube and a turn hard right. The speed was overwhelming. Took him 10m away into the flats, the problem being 10m was never going to be enough.
The full weight of the lip of the wave landed on him, his board cut in half like a bread stick.
The force of the water took him down. He couldn’t breathe. There was a bang. A hard crash into a sand bar. The air was gone. Sharp pains jolted up his legs. The water spat him to the surface. Span him round like he was in a black hole.
Sam gave himself up to the sea. Relaxed in the darkness. Felt oxygen fill his lungs as he snatched at breath.
Bang came the next wave. This time the tumble wasn’t as severe and he forced himself to relax. Maybe he’d be ok. If only he could feel his legs.
He realised he was sideways again, just when he didn’t want to be. His head became light as dizziness took over.
“ I love you,” he
Only, man, he was miles out. Could barely see the beach. His distance from shore made him feel sick and he had to force his bladder to stay shut. It was a time when he’d have to concentrate like he’d never done before and distractions like bodily functions couldn’t be allowed to get in the way.
The waves to the right sounded like a thunder storm. He would have to make sure he didn’t get caught inside.
And then came the gap, as if from nowhere.
He paddled hard into the take-off area.
There was a big set of waves on the horizon.
He duck-dived the first and managed to scrape over it.
The next was huge, but he thought his board could take it.
He turned, paddled, pressed down with his chest. This was the one. No way he could back out no matter how scared he felt. He just had to go. Suddenly he arrived at the trigger point and he felt the wave take over.
He jumped. Concentrated. Felt the rush of super-speed. Wondered whether the fins would hold. Stayed super low to touch water and turn. He was in deep and it was perfect.
“ Yeehah.”
Judging the shoulder and wall, he decided to stall for the tube. Slash for the high line and travelled. The tube was like a house – a castle wall even - its lip enveloping over to engulf him in silence.
For a brief moment he admired the setting sun glimmering on the wave face ahead, a hue of pink to it that made him smile, then he threw his arms forward to accelerate out.
The acceleration was tremendous and he felt in control of everything. Right then he knew it would be the best wave of his whole life. Endorphins rushed inside his head as he admired the beauty around him. Instinctively he knew he was in the perfect spot.
“ Go baby, go.”
And then it changed.
Just ahead, the water sucked back from the sand bar. The wave grew and grew, 4 times his height, now 5. It was really bad news. His bladder gave up the fight and he felt the hot stream down the inside of his left leg.
A minute earlier he hadn’t wanted to be anywhere else, now it was the last place on earth he’d choose.
The wave had turned ugly, like the wicked queen in Snow White suddenly revealing her true colours. He’d read the story to his children earlier that day. His children! He had children. He had to get back to them, somehow.
Should he pull into the face of the barrel and risk being sucked up and over or out run? He couldn’t think quickly enough.
It was time for one last acceleration.
Out of the tube and a turn hard right. The speed was overwhelming. Took him 10m away into the flats, the problem being 10m was never going to be enough.
The full weight of the lip of the wave landed on him, his board cut in half like a bread stick.
The force of the water took him down. He couldn’t breathe. There was a bang. A hard crash into a sand bar. The air was gone. Sharp pains jolted up his legs. The water spat him to the surface. Span him round like he was in a black hole.
Sam gave himself up to the sea. Relaxed in the darkness. Felt oxygen fill his lungs as he snatched at breath.
Bang came the next wave. This time the tumble wasn’t as severe and he forced himself to relax. Maybe he’d be ok. If only he could feel his legs.
He realised he was sideways again, just when he didn’t want to be. His head became light as dizziness took over.
“ I love you,” he
Similar Books
