The Art and Craft of Coffee

The Art and Craft of Coffee by Kevin Sinnott Page A

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Authors: Kevin Sinnott
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problems. During brewing, the near-boiling water keeps calcium and other minerals suspended. Some cling to the pipes inside of the coffee brewer, clogging it after awhile. At least the minerals don’t affect actual brewing ability.
    Water softened using salt—found in most homes and some municipalities—is more problematic. The residual salt following softening can form a gelatin-like goo in the coffee brewer’s filter, which can prevent extraction or even halt the whole process.
    pH Level
    Liquid’s acid-versus-alkaline value, represented by pH, can significantly affect coffee’s taste. Water should be 7.1, a neutral pH, for its role in coffee flavor. Acidic or alkaline water will throw off the finished beverage’s flavor balance. Alkaline water in particular, when used to brew dark roasts, can cause a dull, indistinct taste.
    Water Checklist
    Water for brewing should be as follows:
• One hundred total dissolved solids (tds) or less. This is soft-to medium-hard water. It will taste better and extend the useful product life of your brewing equipment without the need to delime (remove the mineral buildup).
• A pH level of 7.1. Water more acidic can accentuate coffee bean taste defects. Water more alkaline can make coffee taste bland. That said, if you can only brew using alkaline water, think light roasts. If your water is more acidic, consider darker roasts.
• Chlorine-free water. If you can smell or taste any chlorine in water you use to brew, expect the chlorine to affect your coffee’s taste. Get rid of the chlorine by using a charcoal filter or letting the coffee sit for an hour or so until the chlorine evaporates.
    Does this mean you must use bottled water? In many cases, municipal (tap) water will brew excellent coffee. Most municipalities post their water specifications on their websites. Most likely, the water will contain chlorine, as many places overchlorinate to prevent contamination. As we mention above, chlorine is easy to address. Excess minerals and less-than-ideal pH levels, while less common, are harder to fix. If you come across this, consider using bottled water. Keep in mind that all bottled waters are not alike. Just as with tap water, verify the pH level and tds of bottled water before using.
    Filters
    By design, coffee filters separate grounds from brewed coffee following brewing. All coffee brewing processes involve some sort of filtration. Even the earliest (and simplest) brewing methods—tossing loose grounds into a pot of boiling water—used “filtration” by carefully pouring off the coffee, keeping the grounds separate from the finished beverage.
    Filters differ in their ability to remove all grounds and sediment from the brewed coffee. This influences the perception of coffee’s taste, body, and texture. Some people prefer a super-clean, highly filtered beverage; others prefer one rich in sediment. Filtration methods that allow particles to pass through to the finished brew will affect taste (and bitterness). The tiniest particles continue to extract in the finished beverage.
    Your personal taste—and your brewer’s function, of course—affect which filter you choose. Any time you change filter types, figure out contact time to make sure the new filter does not require finer or coarser grinds. A thicker paper will prolong contact; a fine metal mesh one will accelerate it. (The irony of this is that manufacturers often tout the “full body and rich flavor” metal filters produce, but speeding up the drip rate actually reduces contact time and weakens coffee strength.)

    Clockwise from top:
Metal mesh filter
Percolater metal filter
Espresso porta-filter
Paper filters, both bleached and natural
    Most metal mesh filters included with drip makers prevent a significant amount of particles in the finished brew, although they tend to increase flow rates and thus reduce water’s contact time with the grounds.
    Glass filters , used in some older vacuum brewer models, contain tiny

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