Thanksgiving 101

Thanksgiving 101 by Rick Rodgers Page B

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Authors: Rick Rodgers
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dangerous bacterial growth inside the bird. If you follow the guidelines on how to stuff the bird safely, you’ll have no problems. The only time I consider not stuffing the bird is to save time. An unstuffed turkey weighs less and cooks more rapidly. The bird is just as tasty without the stuffing. (Whether the stuffing is as tasty cooked outside of the bird is a matter of personal taste.)
    If you choose not to stuff the turkey, there are two excellent ways to add flavor to the bird and drippings. I usually replace the stuffing with a vegetable seasoning: Chop 1 large onion, 1 large carrot, and 1 large celery rib with leaves. Mix with 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon poultry seasoning (preferably Homemade Poultry Seasoning), 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. The vegetables are only a seasoning—don’t serve them as a side dish.
    Or stuff the neck and body cavities with fresh herbs. I use about 2 packed cups mixed fresh thyme, sage, rosemary, parsley, and marjoram sprigs for a 20-pound bird. This potpourri adds an incredible scent to the turkey and makes the gravy terrific.
    If you don’t stuff the turkey, at the end of the roasting period, tilt the bird so the juices that have collected in the cavity run into the pan drippings, where they will add flavor.
    If I stuff the bird, do I have to sew up the openings to hold it in?
    It is unnecessary to sew up a bird. To hold the neck stuffing in place, skewer the neck skin to the back skin with a bamboo or thin metal skewer. To protect the exposed stuffing from overbrowning, just cover it loosely with a small piece of foil. But if your grandma taught you to sew up the stuffing in the bird, and you have good tailoring skills, go right ahead. Use a strong mattress or sailing-canvas needle, available at sewing stores, for the job. These also have eyes big enough to thread thick kitchen twine.
    Do you have to truss a turkey with string?
    A trussed bird is more evenly roasted and holds its shape. Many cooks truss their birds with crisscrosses of string, but I never tie up my birdmore than necessary. To secure the wings, fold them back (“akimbo”) behind the turkey’s shoulders. If the wings are too big to be folded back, then tie them alongside the body with string. To hold the drumsticks, insert them into the hock lock. If the bird doesn’t have a hock lock or a strap of skin to hold the drumsticks, tie them together with string. If you are out of string, use unwaxed dental floss (I don’t have to say “unflavored,” do I?).
    With the oven-blasted method, the turkey is easier to turn if it is trussed in the classic French manner, so instructions are included with that recipe.
    What do you put on the outside of your turkey?
    Not much—butter, salt, and pepper. I massage the bird with softened unsalted butter, but you can also brush it with melted butter. The butter melts to ensure drippings for basting and the gravy, and its dairy proteins promote browning. Vegetable oil or margarine do not work as well. I season the bird with salt and pepper, nothing else. If the bird is seasoned on the outside with herbs, they often scorch during the long roasting period. Some cooks slip fresh herbs or an herb butter under the breast skin to add flavor. That it does, but during roasting, the herbs turn dark and look unappetizing. Paprika, which some people use on the bird as a browning agent, is particularly extraneous. When the correct oven temperature is used, your bird will be a gorgeous golden brown, even without paprika.
    Generally, I don’t glaze the bird, as some of the glaze always drips into the roasting pan and ends up in the gravy.
    Do you like to baste the turkey?
    Basting promotes browning, and the hot drippings help seal the skin and hold in the juices. Baste every 45 minutes or so, and do it quickly so the temperature doesn’t fall while the oven door is open.
    At the beginning of roasting, I pour turkey stock into the roasting pan.

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