find organic meat, always opt for it. I even buy frozen meat if it is organic. It’s always worth the extra money. Natural meat is the second-best choice.
LAMB CHOPS WITH PEAS AND MATSUTAKE MUSHROOMS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
There are a handful of organic lamb companies around the country, and the lamb they produce is wonderful. I like lamb chops on the bone. Those who don’t pick them up with their fingers, enjoying every morsel, are missing out on the best part.
Matsutakes come from the Northwest—if you can’t find them, shiitakes are a delicious substitute.
8 rib or loin lamb chops
5 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 medium shallots, thinly sliced
4 ounces fresh matsutake mushrooms, thinly sliced
¼ cup cream sherry
2 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram or oregano
1½ pounds fresh peas, shelled (about 1½ cups)
Prepare a hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill on high, or preheat the broiler. Lightly oil the grill rack or broiler pan.
Put the lamb in a medium bowl and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, three-quarters of the garlic, and the rosemary, and season well with salt and pepper. Toss to coat the lamb. Let stand for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, warm the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add the shallots and remaining garlic and cook for about 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the mushrooms, sherry, and marjoram or oregano and cook until the mushrooms begin to soften. Remove from the heat and set the saucepan aside.
Grill or broil the chops for 5 minutes, turning once, or until browned and a thermometer inserted in the center registers 145°F for medium-rare.
Just before serving, place the mushroom mixture over medium heat and add the peas. Cover the pan and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the peas are tender.
Divide the chops among 4 plates and top with the mushroom and peas.
PORT-BRAISED CIPOLLINI ONIONS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
A few years ago, my dear friend Michael Romano, the chef at Union Square Cafe in New York City, took me to his home in the Hamptons. Rather than going out to eat as we always do when in the city, he cooked for me. We drank good wine and laughed and cried as friends sometimes do. But the most memorable part of the actual meal was his cipollini onions. This is my interpretation of his recipe.
1 cup ruby port
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 cup vegetable or chicken broth
8 ounces cipollini onions or other small onions
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon salt
Pinch of red-pepper flakes (optional)
Combine the port, thyme, and ½ cup of the broth in a large skillet over high heat. Add the onions and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the onions are very soft. Add the remaining ½ cup broth when all of the liquid evaporates.
When the onions are cooked, you should have ¼ cup reduced sauce. If you have more sauce, uncover and simmer over medium-high heat until reduced to ¼ cup. Add the brown sugar, butter, salt, and pepper flakes (if desired) and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
KITCHEN TIP
Cipollini onions are ideal to cook alongside roasting meats or chicken. Add them at the very beginning; they impart flavor and also serve as a side dish.
MOREL-STUFFED PATTYPAN SQUASH
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Summer squash is an underrated vegetable. Because it is available year-round and is reasonably inexpensive and easy to prepare, it is not used when at its best: in late spring and early summer. These stuffed squash are a wonderful side dish for so many main courses, including fish and poultry. If you can’t find fresh morels, substitute chanterelles or shiitakes.
6 medium pattypan squash
1½ cups vegetable or chicken broth
5 whole peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ red onion, finely chopped
4 ounces morel mushrooms, sliced
1 garlic clove,
LAMB CHOPS WITH PEAS AND MATSUTAKE MUSHROOMS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
There are a handful of organic lamb companies around the country, and the lamb they produce is wonderful. I like lamb chops on the bone. Those who don’t pick them up with their fingers, enjoying every morsel, are missing out on the best part.
Matsutakes come from the Northwest—if you can’t find them, shiitakes are a delicious substitute.
8 rib or loin lamb chops
5 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 medium shallots, thinly sliced
4 ounces fresh matsutake mushrooms, thinly sliced
¼ cup cream sherry
2 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram or oregano
1½ pounds fresh peas, shelled (about 1½ cups)
Prepare a hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill on high, or preheat the broiler. Lightly oil the grill rack or broiler pan.
Put the lamb in a medium bowl and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, three-quarters of the garlic, and the rosemary, and season well with salt and pepper. Toss to coat the lamb. Let stand for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, warm the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add the shallots and remaining garlic and cook for about 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the mushrooms, sherry, and marjoram or oregano and cook until the mushrooms begin to soften. Remove from the heat and set the saucepan aside.
Grill or broil the chops for 5 minutes, turning once, or until browned and a thermometer inserted in the center registers 145°F for medium-rare.
Just before serving, place the mushroom mixture over medium heat and add the peas. Cover the pan and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the peas are tender.
Divide the chops among 4 plates and top with the mushroom and peas.
PORT-BRAISED CIPOLLINI ONIONS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
A few years ago, my dear friend Michael Romano, the chef at Union Square Cafe in New York City, took me to his home in the Hamptons. Rather than going out to eat as we always do when in the city, he cooked for me. We drank good wine and laughed and cried as friends sometimes do. But the most memorable part of the actual meal was his cipollini onions. This is my interpretation of his recipe.
1 cup ruby port
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 cup vegetable or chicken broth
8 ounces cipollini onions or other small onions
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon salt
Pinch of red-pepper flakes (optional)
Combine the port, thyme, and ½ cup of the broth in a large skillet over high heat. Add the onions and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the onions are very soft. Add the remaining ½ cup broth when all of the liquid evaporates.
When the onions are cooked, you should have ¼ cup reduced sauce. If you have more sauce, uncover and simmer over medium-high heat until reduced to ¼ cup. Add the brown sugar, butter, salt, and pepper flakes (if desired) and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
KITCHEN TIP
Cipollini onions are ideal to cook alongside roasting meats or chicken. Add them at the very beginning; they impart flavor and also serve as a side dish.
MOREL-STUFFED PATTYPAN SQUASH
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Summer squash is an underrated vegetable. Because it is available year-round and is reasonably inexpensive and easy to prepare, it is not used when at its best: in late spring and early summer. These stuffed squash are a wonderful side dish for so many main courses, including fish and poultry. If you can’t find fresh morels, substitute chanterelles or shiitakes.
6 medium pattypan squash
1½ cups vegetable or chicken broth
5 whole peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ red onion, finely chopped
4 ounces morel mushrooms, sliced
1 garlic clove,
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