Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well

Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well by Pellegrino Artusi, Murtha Baca, Luigi Ballerini Page A

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with the increase in the cost of flour and therefore of bread: a kilogram of bread cost 40 cents of a lira, a full hour of work was compensated with 18 cents.
    71 See the complete text on line:
www.vatican.va/holy_father/leo_xiii_enc_1505891 rerum novarum_en.html
.
    72 See the Florentine pages of this American sculptor’s biography penned “From Letters, Diaries and Recollections” by Henry James
(William Wetmore Story and His Friends
[Boston: Houghton, Mifflin & Co., 1903]).
    73 Pellegrino Artusi,
Autobiografia
, ed. Alberto Capatti and Andrea Pollarini (Milan: II Saggiatore, 1993),
96
. No one in his right mind, apart from food history
aficionados
, would bother to read this document, which its own editors do not hesitate to describe as lacking “an essential quality: appetite and food … Parties and banquets are carefully avoided, and when it would highly desirable to expect something about the culinary experiments that made Artusi famous, the manuscript comes to an end.” Luckily, what the
Autobiografia
holds back, Capatti’s and Pollarini accompanying text provides with doubled interest.
    74 Ibid., 85.
    75 On “ February, 1929, during Pius XI’s pontificate, a historic agreement was reached between the Italian government and the Vatican, re-establishing the political power and diplomatic standing of the Catholic Chuch. Prime Minister Mussolini signed for Italy, Cardinal Gasparri for the Holy See. Newspapers all over the world proclaimed that the “wound” inflicted on the Vatican had been healed.
    76 Literally, a “priest-eater.”
    77 Artusi,
Autobiografia
, 94.
    78 On 27 April 1859, “at six o clock p.m., the prince and his family, accompanied by members of the diplomatic body all the way to the State border, took leave of the silent crowd and made way towards Bologna.” Thus the
Monitore Toscano
, of 28 April. And this too is a sample of bourgeois culture: taking down a regime without shedding a single drop of blood.
    79 Capatti and Pollarini, eds.,
Autobiografia
, 15.
    80 Ibid., 47.
    81 In the dialect of Emilia-Romagna, a small and very swift eel.
    82 Artusi,
Autobiografia
, 101.
    83 Cit. p. 43.
    84 See Giancarlo Roversi, “Pellegrino Artusi a Bologna,” 129–30. Artusi himself makes no mention of it in his
Autobiografia
. Whatever private school he may have attended, he writes proudly as a self-taught gentleman. At the same time, he is intimidated by those (like his friend Mantegazza) whose sophistication and knowledge were officially recognized.
    85 The Pelloni gang’s legendary invasion of Forlimpopoli is one of the most celebrated episodes of nineteenth-century Italian history (in fact, there are at least seventeen novelized versions of the bandit’s life, and countless folk songs, poems, plays, and “historical” accounts, which continued to be brought forth by Italian writers andpublishers with great frequency and success through the 1970s). Born in 1824, he lived to be only twenty-six: betrayed by one of his own men, he was killed by the pontifical gendarmes in March of 1851. Most famous is the mention poet Giovanni Pascoli makes of him in his “Romagna” (see
Myricae
, also published for the first time in 1891), where the bandit is described as “courteous” and lauded as “king of the forest, king of the highway.” And while many tall tales have been derived from the events of 25 January, 1851, perhaps the most reliable source is the report filed on the following day by the commander of the gendarmes of the Forli Station: “Purporting to be Public Forces, the robbers took possession of [one of] the city gates [facing Forli] … Then they headed toward the theater where a comic performance
[La morte di Sisam
, a tragedy, according to Artusi and others] was under way and they disarmed the guards there. Three of the robbers mounted the stage, and when the curtain rose for the second act, they pointed their guns at the audience. Dumbfounded by the way in which and by the place where

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