Making Artisan Cheese

Making Artisan Cheese by Tim Smith Page A

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Authors: Tim Smith
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the sides of the cheese. Rub a thin coat of vegetable shortening on the cheese, covering the entire cheese. Lay the cheese cloth on the top and bottom of the cheese, adhering to the shortening. Repeat the process, layering a second coat of shortening between the two layers of cloth. Cover with the second layer of cheese cloth, and rub the fabric smooth to form a solid seal. Ripen at 55° F (13°C) for three to six months at 80–85 percent humidity, turning weekly.

Pour the curds into a 2-pound (900 g), cheese cloth–lined mold. (If you are using the Wheeler cheese press you will not be able to fit all of the curds into the mold, unless you use the stainless-steel mold to catch the additional curds.) Press at ten pounds for fifteen minutes. Take the cheese out of mold, and peel off the cheese cloth. Turn the cheese over, rewrap it in the cheese cloth, and press at forty pounds for twelve hours. Repeat this procedure, and press at fifty pounds for twenty-four hours.
    Take the cheese out of the mold, and let it air-dry on a cheese board for two to three days. Turn the cheese several times daily to allow for even drying.
    Yield: 2 pounds (900 g)

Artisan Advice
The process of cheddaring occurs when the cheese maker takes the mass of drained curds, lays them out flat, cuts them into blocks, and then stacks them on top of each other. Over time, the curd blocks will shrink in size and become firm in texture as they continue to lose whey. The end result is a cheese renowned for its flaky texture and pleasantly tangy flavor.

Colby
    Colby cheese was developed in Colby, Wisconsin, in 1885, by Joseph F. Steinwand. Colby is similar to Cheddar, but because it is produced through a washed-curd process, it is a softer, moister, and milder cheese. It is often called Colby Longhorn, which is in reference to the long cylindrical molds that are used to form the cheese—not the cow.

PROCEDURE
    Heat the milk to 86°F (30°C), and gently stir in the starter culture. Cover and let the milk ripen at the target temperature for one hour. If using homogenized milk, add the calcium chloride. Add the diluted annatto coloring and stir.
    Maintaining the target temperature of 86°F (30°C), add the diluted rennet and stir for one minute. Cover and let sit for forty minutes at target temperature. Check for a clean break (see page 83 ) with a curd knife (or your finger) and making a test cut through the curds. Cut the curds into" (1 cm) cubes. Stir and let rest for five minutes at target temperature.
    Heat curds slowly to 102°F (39°C); this should take forty minutes. Stir gently and frequently to keep the curds from matting. Once you reach the target temperature, maintain it for an additional thirty minutes, stirring gently. In the meantime, draw a pot of water (6 cups [1.4 L] minimum), and maintain it at 60°F (16°C).
    With a sterilized measuring cup, draw off the whey to the level of the curds. Begin adding the water to the curds and stir. Continue adding the water until the temperature of the curds drops to 80°F (27°C). At this point, you should have added about 5 cups (1.2 L) of water. Maintain the temperature for fifteen minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the curds from matting.

INGREDIENTS
2 gallons (7.6 L) whole milk
6 tablespoons (90 ml) mesophilic mother culture, or ¼ teaspoon (about 2 ml) mesophilic direct-set culture
4 drops annatto coloring diluted in ¼ cup (60 ml) cool, unchlorinated water
teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup (60 ml) cool water. (see page 72 )
1 teaspoon (5 ml) liquid rennet, or ¼ tablet dry rennet diluted in ¼ cup (60 ml) water
2 tablespoons (36 g) cheese salt
TECHNIQUES
For illustrated steps and tools, see Intermediate Cheese-Making Techniques, page 82 .

Colby cheese is similar in color and texture to Cheddar, but it has a milder flavor and is softer and moister.

Pour the curds into a colander lined with cheese cloth or butter muslin, rest it on top of a catch bowl, and allow to drain for twenty

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