Down and Out in Paris and London
can he stop and say to
    himself, ‘This toast is to be eaten—I must make it eatable’?
    All he knows is that it must look right and must be ready
    in three minutes. Some large drops of sweat fall from his
    forehead on to the toast. Why should he worry? Presently
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    the toast falls among the filthy sawdust on the floor. Why
    trouble to make a new piece? It is much quicker to wipe the
    sawdust off. On the way upstairs the toast falls again, butter
    side down. Another wipe is all it needs. And so with every-
    thing. The only food at the Hotel X which was ever prepared
    cleanly was the staff’s, and the PATRON’S. The maxim, re-
    peated by everyone, was: ‘Look out for the PATRON, and
    as for the clients, S’EN F—PAS MAL!’ Everywhere in the
    service quarters dirt festered—a secret vein of dirt, running
    through the great garish hotel like the intestines through a
    man’s body.
    Apart from the dirt, the PATRON swindled the custom-
    ers wholeheartedly. For the most part the materials of the
    food were very bad, though the cooks knew how to serve it
    up in style. The meat was at best ordinary, and as to the veg-
    etables, no good housekeeper would have looked at them
    in the market. The cream, by a standing order, was diluted
    with milk. The tea and coffee were of inferior sorts, and the
    jam was synthetic stuff out of vast, unlabelled tins. All the
    cheaper wines, according to Boris, were corked VIN OR-
    DINAIRE. There was a rule that employees must pay for
    anything they spoiled, and in consequence damaged things
    were seldom thrown away. Once the waiter on the third
    floor dropped a roast chicken down the shaft of our service
    lift, where it fell into a litter of broken bread, torn paper and
    so forth at the bottom. We simply wiped it with a cloth and
    sent it up again. Upstairs there were dirty tales of once-used
    sheets not being washed, but simply damped, ironed and
    put back on the beds. The PATRON was as mean to us as

    Down and Out in Paris and London
    to the customers. Throughout the vast hotel there was not,
    for instance, such a thing as a brush and pan; one had to
    manage with a broom and a piece of cardboard. And the
    staff lavatory was worthy of Central Asia, and there was no
    place to wash one’s hands, except the sinks used for wash-
    ing crockery.
    In spite of all this the Hotel X was one of the dozen most
    expensive hotels in Paris, and the customers paid startling
    prices. The ordinary charge for a night’s lodging, not in-
    cluding breakfast, was two hundred francs. All wine and
    tobacco were sold at exactly double shop prices, though of
    course the PATRON bought at the wholesale price. If a cus-
    tomer had a title, or was reputed to be a millionaire, all his
    charges went up automatically. One morning on the fourth
    floor an American who was on diet wanted only salt and hot
    water for his breakfast. Valenti was furious. ‘Jesus Christ!’
    he said, ‘what about my ten per cent? Ten per cent of salt and
    water!’ And he charged twenty-five francs for the breakfast.
    The customer paid without a murmur.
    According to Boris, the same kind of thing went on in
    all Paris hotels, or at least in all the big, expensive ones.
    But I imagine that the customers at the Hotel X were es-
    pecially easy to swindle, for they were mostly Americans,
    with a sprinkling of English—no French—and seemed to
    know nothing whatever about good food. They would stuff
    themselves with disgusting American ‘cereals’, and eat mar-
    malade at tea, and drink vermouth after dinner, and order a
    POULET A LA REINE at a hundred francs and then souse
    it in Worcester sauce. One customer, from Pittsburg, dined
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    every night in his bedroom on grape-nuts, scrambled eggs
    and cocoa. Perhaps it hardly matters whether such o people
    are swindled or not.

    Down and Out in Paris and London
    XV
    I heard queer tales in the hotel. There were tales of dope
    fiends, of

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