turned away. With his shorts down around his ankles, Spazzy tried to grab the towel and hold it up before it fell to the sand and left him bare-butt naked on the beach. In the process he lost his balance and fell. Now he couldnât get up without letting go of the towel.
âHold on to that towel, dude.â Kai reached down, slipped his hands under Spazzyâs arms from behind and helped him up while Spazzy clung to the towel.
âTell you what,â Kai said. âIâll hold the towel from behind and you pull on the wet suit.â
It took a while, but they managed to help Spazzy get the wet suit on. âGood thing this is a shorty,â Spazzy said. âOut in California I have to wear a full suit. Sometimes it takes half an hour just to get it on.â
One thing that amazed Kai about Spazzy was how open and honest he was about his âcondition.â Kai watched nervously as Spazzy bent down and picked up old #43. He started to feel a little better when the guy pulled the leash up and balanced the board in the middle with the bottom facing inward and the deck facing out. So, at least, it
seemed
like Spazzy knew what he was doing.
About ten feet from the waters edge, Spazzy broke into a run, splashed into the shallows and launched himself and the board into the waves. Kai felt himself relax even more. It looked like Spazzy really had been doing this for years. Kai got on his board and paddled out behind him. Spazzy headed toward Sewers with his back arched, knees bent, and both feet raised, no doubt a habit heâd developed surfing in the cold Californiawinter waters. The guyâs paddling strokes were strong and smooth and from the movements of his arms, Kai knew he was using the S stroke that good swimmers, and surfers, use to get extra thrust.
Usually the first time you paddled out in the morning, especially at a break youâd never surfed before, you tended to take your time. You sat up on the board, caught your breath, had a look around, felt the smaller swells rise and fall beneath you, took a look at how the waves were cresting and breaking, checked the water for unwanted guests such as sharks and jellyfish. So it took Kai by surprise when, before theyâd even gotten all the way outside, Spazzy suddenly swung the tip of the long board around, took a couple of easy strokes and was on a wave. It happened so fast that Kai didnât even have time to catch the next wave and follow him. In a flash Spazzy was up and in the pocket. His stance was wide and stiff. Not nearly as relaxed and gracefull as Beanâs, but with his legs spread like that he could shift his weight forward or back, slowing down or speeding up the board at will.
By the time Kai caught a wave, Spazzy was paddling back. Kai kicked out and paddled with him.
âNice ride,â Kai said.
âThanks, dude. You canât believe how good it feels.â
Actually Kai was pretty sure he could believe it.
They caught some more waves. After a while Shauna stood up on the beach and waved at them.
âUh, I hate to say this,â Kai said to Spazzy, âbut it looks like Shauna wants the board back.â
You could see the disappointment creep across Spazzyâs face. Then he glanced at his wristwatch. âI better get going anyway before the Wicked Witch notices Iâm gone and sends out the hounds. This was really great, dude. Thanks.â
âMy pleasure.â
Spazzy started to look for a wave to catch in. âHey, one other thing?â he said. âThink I could leave my wet suit and towel with you? If I take âem home, Iâm gonna catch hell.â
âNo sweat,â Kai said. âLeave âem on the beach. Iâll take care of them.â
âBe back tomorrow, okay?â Spazzy said.
âDefinitely,â said Kai.
Spazzy caught the next wave in. On thebeach he handed the board back to Shauna. Meanwhile, Kai paddled out to Screamers, where Bean and
Candice Hern, Bárbara Metzger, Emma Wildes, Sharon Page, Delilah Marvelle, Anna Campbell, Lorraine Heath, Elizabeth Boyle, Deborah Raleigh, Margo Maguire, Michèle Ann Young, Sara Bennett, Anthea Lawson, Trisha Telep, Robyn DeHart, Carolyn Jewel, Amanda Grange, Vanessa Kelly, Patricia Rice, Christie Kelley, Leah Ball, Caroline Linden, Shirley Kennedy, Julia Templeton
Jenn Marlow
Hailey Edwards
P. W. Catanese
Will Self
Daisy Banks
Amanda Hilton
Codi Gary
Karolyn James
Cynthia Voigt