the ground and make a sticky mess of their lawns.
This conserve was inspired by just such a picking foray. Instead of overdoing it with the sugar, like some fig jams, I like to focus on the deep, purple-brown flavor of figs, adding just a little bourbon and ginger to enhance the sensual flavor of the slow-stewed fruit. A natural partner for aged cheeses, this spread is great smeared with a little blue cheese, or try on the Brown Butter–Hazelnut Crackers ( page 63 ) with a shaving of pecorino toscano for an unusual dessert nibble.
MAKES 1¾ CUPS/420 ML
1 lb/450 g ripe Mission figs
½ cup/100 g packed light brown sugar
¼ cup/60 ml bourbon
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus 2 tsp finely grated organic lemon zest
1 tbsp finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
Rinse and pat dry the figs. Cut the fruit into quarters and discard the stems. Place the figs, brown sugar, bourbon, lemon juice, lemon zest, and ginger in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat; reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thick and jammy, 30 minutes.
Cool the mixture until just warm to the touch. Blend with an immersion blender or transfer the mixture to a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer the conserve to an airtight container and keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
BACON AND CARAMELIZED ONION JAM
This dip may sound over-the-top, but its roots are firmly planted in the French tradition of rillettes —meat cooked and preserved in its own fat to create spreadable pâté. That said, this decadent dip is definitely “dude food,” too; it will be an instant hit at your next Super Bowl party or barbecue alongside Corn Bread Crisps ( page 29 ), Macadamia Nut and Coconut Flour Club Crackers ( page 73 ), or Soda Water Crackers with Alder Smoked Salt ( page 26 ).
As with most recipes, the success here has a lot to do with the shopping. Be sure to use good-quality smoked bacon like Nueske’s applewood smoked bacon ( www.nueskes.com ) for the best flavor. This recipe yields enough jam to share; it makes a great gift when packaged in pretty little jars tied with a pig-pink ribbon.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS/480 ML
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
12 oz/340 g center-cut smoked bacon (8 to 10 slices), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm lengths
2 onions, thinly sliced through the root end
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tsp ground cumin
⅛ tsp ground cloves
½ cup/120 ml chicken broth
½ cup/100 g packed light brown sugar
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring frequently, until all the fat has rendered and the bacon is crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat and transfer the bacon to a small bowl. Leave 2 tbsp of the drippings in the pan; reserve the rest for another use, or discard.
Add the onions to the pan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions turn light caramel brown and have softened and broken down to about half their original volume, 15 to 20 minutes. If the onions begin to burn, reduce the heat, and be patient: it’s crucial to cook down the onions slowly without burning them so they are sweet instead of bitter.
Reduce the heat to low if it is not already there and add the garlic, cumin, and cloves to the pan. Cook until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring constantly, until the broth has been absorbed, 4 minutes.
Add the cooked bacon and brown sugar. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is syrupy, 5 minutes. Set aside and let the mixture cool for 10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a food processor, add the vinegar, and process until the bacon is in pieces no larger than ½ in/12 mm and the onions are the consistency of marmalade, 10 one-second pulses. Season the mixture with salt and pepper and transfer to a serving
This conserve was inspired by just such a picking foray. Instead of overdoing it with the sugar, like some fig jams, I like to focus on the deep, purple-brown flavor of figs, adding just a little bourbon and ginger to enhance the sensual flavor of the slow-stewed fruit. A natural partner for aged cheeses, this spread is great smeared with a little blue cheese, or try on the Brown Butter–Hazelnut Crackers ( page 63 ) with a shaving of pecorino toscano for an unusual dessert nibble.
MAKES 1¾ CUPS/420 ML
1 lb/450 g ripe Mission figs
½ cup/100 g packed light brown sugar
¼ cup/60 ml bourbon
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus 2 tsp finely grated organic lemon zest
1 tbsp finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
Rinse and pat dry the figs. Cut the fruit into quarters and discard the stems. Place the figs, brown sugar, bourbon, lemon juice, lemon zest, and ginger in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat; reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thick and jammy, 30 minutes.
Cool the mixture until just warm to the touch. Blend with an immersion blender or transfer the mixture to a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer the conserve to an airtight container and keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
BACON AND CARAMELIZED ONION JAM
This dip may sound over-the-top, but its roots are firmly planted in the French tradition of rillettes —meat cooked and preserved in its own fat to create spreadable pâté. That said, this decadent dip is definitely “dude food,” too; it will be an instant hit at your next Super Bowl party or barbecue alongside Corn Bread Crisps ( page 29 ), Macadamia Nut and Coconut Flour Club Crackers ( page 73 ), or Soda Water Crackers with Alder Smoked Salt ( page 26 ).
As with most recipes, the success here has a lot to do with the shopping. Be sure to use good-quality smoked bacon like Nueske’s applewood smoked bacon ( www.nueskes.com ) for the best flavor. This recipe yields enough jam to share; it makes a great gift when packaged in pretty little jars tied with a pig-pink ribbon.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS/480 ML
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
12 oz/340 g center-cut smoked bacon (8 to 10 slices), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm lengths
2 onions, thinly sliced through the root end
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tsp ground cumin
⅛ tsp ground cloves
½ cup/120 ml chicken broth
½ cup/100 g packed light brown sugar
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring frequently, until all the fat has rendered and the bacon is crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat and transfer the bacon to a small bowl. Leave 2 tbsp of the drippings in the pan; reserve the rest for another use, or discard.
Add the onions to the pan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions turn light caramel brown and have softened and broken down to about half their original volume, 15 to 20 minutes. If the onions begin to burn, reduce the heat, and be patient: it’s crucial to cook down the onions slowly without burning them so they are sweet instead of bitter.
Reduce the heat to low if it is not already there and add the garlic, cumin, and cloves to the pan. Cook until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring constantly, until the broth has been absorbed, 4 minutes.
Add the cooked bacon and brown sugar. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is syrupy, 5 minutes. Set aside and let the mixture cool for 10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a food processor, add the vinegar, and process until the bacon is in pieces no larger than ½ in/12 mm and the onions are the consistency of marmalade, 10 one-second pulses. Season the mixture with salt and pepper and transfer to a serving
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