be just half an hour or forty-five minutes.â
I had money to give him, but I wasnât sure when I should pass it along. Giving straight cash is always a tricky thing to gauge. It can be in anticipation of a favor or as gratitude, or you can mean it to be one but itâll end up being perceived as the other. I went up to him when he stepped away from the podium. âWow, you guys are so hot. It must be fun to work here. I bet everyone does what I do and are always bothering you. I hope you understand we concierges are on the frontlines. Everybody looks at us like weâre idiots because we canât get them in here. Iâm sorry to bother you but itâs my job.â I shook his hand and palmed him $200.
He didnât make a show of protesting, as most maître dâs in my experience tend to do before pocketing the cash. He pretended nothing had happened. But two seconds later, we were being seated at a tableâand Hal Druiter was my new best friend, as nice as can be.
Hoping to be seen, I did a quick scan of the other diners. Were we even in New York City, let alone downtown? It didnât buzz like other places with that kind of hype. Where were all the alleged celebrities? The crowd was clearly a well-heeled bunch, but there were no air kisses. It felt a little bit like we were all guests at a wedding where we really didnât know the family.
The food itself was really, really goodâjust like at ten thousand other restaurants in New York. But the larger part of going to eat at a nice restaurant is the experience, and thatâs where it fell flat.
Itâs engaging to let people in service know that youâre really enthusiastic about what youâre about to experience. It makes them want to make the experience even better for youâif theyâre normal. But there didnât seem to be any sense of excitement from the staff at The Trough .
We got the menu and I looked it over. âIt all seems so good. Whatâs your favorite thing to try?â I asked the waiter.
He sighed with irritation. âWell, it depends on what you like. If you like fish, then this one is good.â
After I left that night, I made sure to say good-bye to Hal. âCall me anytime,â he told me. âYouâre the best. Let me give you our direct line.â
Cool, I thought. I got the number!
A couple of weeks later, a guest wanted a reservation for a table. I called the numberâbut it was the same as the regular one, except it bypassed the hold music. Some secret! âSorry,â they told me on the phone. âWe have nothing.â
âWell, will you tell Hal that I called?
He actually called me back. âWhat do you want?â he said. He wasnât very warm and he wasnât very cold; it was just very businesslike.
âIâm so desperate,â I said.
âWhat do you need?â he said.
âCan I get a four-top in at eight?â
âWhatâs the name?â he said, impatiently. He didnât want to linger on the phone because he didnât need to linger on the phone. I had a short, specific request, and it was granted. The guest got their table and I did my job. Everyone was happy. Iâm so in now, I thought.
Now I felt comfortable recommending The Trough to the guests of the hotel. The next time I called, I thought my old buddy Hal would be glad to speak to me. But it was my old buddy Halâthe one who didnât know me from Adamâwho was on the other end of the line.
âHi, is Hal there?â
âHold on,â the hostess said. âWhoâs calling?â
âItâs Michael Fazio.â
âLet me check.â They put me on hold, and I was forced to listen to opera music for a few minutes. âYeah, heâs going to have to get back to you.â
Crap. Crap, crap, crap!
I went back there after work one night, about eleven oâclock. I sat at the bar and ordered a drink. Hal was there
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